Vday Bubbles

Say what you will about Hallmark’s cooptation of Saint Valentine’s Day, when you’re married – or in any kind of relationship for that matter – it’s unwise to ignore the holiday. This year, it was a moot point, as Thursday’s one of my late nights at the office and an evening of extracurricular activities for my spouse. Even Wednesday was hectic but we made do with a little carryout from our favorite neighborhood Chinese spot as an early way to celebrate the day.

Ever since a recent close but not quite encounter with Selosse, I’ve been thinking about the possibility of pairing Champagne with Chinese cuisine. Champagne, Blanc de Blancs in particular, has long been one of my favorite options for the Japanese staples of sushi and sashimi but I’d never given much thought to extending Champs’ range to the greater hodge-podge and challenges of the Chinese table. What better occasion than V-day to give it a whirl?

Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, Larmandier-Bernier NV
Larmandier-Bernier hit my radar after reading about their wines on more than one occasion on the blog of the overtly bubble-fueled Brooklynguy. This is naturally grown and produced Champagne from Chardonnay grown in the villages of Vertus, Cramant, Oger and Avize. Its low dosage – only 4 grams – is not immediately apparent, as the wine shows generous fruit and has some substantial flesh on its bones. Not as laser-like in its acidity and minerality as some Blanc de Blancs or as overtly lemony as others, it nonetheless exhibits attributes from both of those palettes. Brioche, blanched hazelnuts and red apple skin nuances add to its depth. After the initial intensity of the mousse subsided, it turned out to be a very fine aperitif. To my joy, and slight surprise, it also fared quite well in the company of grilled shrimp with a lightly stir-fried hash of red and green bell peppers and a few spikes of fresh garlic. As my wife partook of only a small glass, I was able to save a little into a second day. An oilier texture emerged. The delicate lemon chiffon elements from day one gave way in the wake of more overtly apple flesh driven flavors. I'd love to try a bottle with a couple more years of aging on the cork.
$47. 12% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Louis-Dressner, New York, NY.

Quite by coincidence, Eric Asimov briefly extolled the virtues of Champagne with Chinese food, Sichuan in particular, in a posting on The Pour that appeared on Valentine’s Day. Scrubbing bubbles and cleansing acidity, he asserts, are its keys to success. I found the charms of Larmandier-Bernier’s Blanc de Blancs to extend beyond that simple yet entirely accurate formula. It actually brought out a particular savor in the food, a one plus one equals three pairing as one of my co-workers likes to say. Apparently, I’ve been missing the boat all these years. Rest assured, I won’t wait until next February to repeat the experience. Carryout Chinese is good for any night when time is at a premium. And good Champagne is a delight on any night, period.