Some Sips from Southwest France

To allay any fears that I somehow made it through an eight course tasting menu without a drop of wine, here are a few tasting notes from a recent dinner at Talula’s Table. When picking out bottles to cart along for the evening, I quickly saw a mini pattern developing with the whites, both of which were from the greater southwest of France. So I decided to continue that theme straight through the evening.

Blanquette de Limoux “Le Berceau,” Maison Vergnes (Domaine de Martinolles) NV
Although technically located in the Languedoc-Roussillon, Limoux’s situation in the eastern foothills of the Pyrenées often leads its wines to be considered in the context of the greater southwest of France. Maison Vergnes produces some of the best quality and best value wines of the AOC, with this, their flagship non-vintage Méthode Traditionnelle bottling, slotting into the always sweet under-$15 price range. It’s a typical blend to the area, constituted mostly of the local specialty Mauzac, salted and peppered with small quantities of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.

I was particularly keen to see how this bottle would show, as it had been hiding in my cellar for a good three or four years since purchase. The verdict was good. Hay-toned colors suggested continuing youth. The characteristic yellow apple fruit of Mauzac, along with brioche and lanolin, were still in plentiful evidence right up front. Medium mousse, generous texture and medium-bodied impact. With a bit of air, elements of bottle development began to appear, with a touch of oiliness in the rear palate and a finish redolent of roasted brazil nuts and hazelnuts. $12 on release. 12.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Wine Traditions, Falls Church, VA.

Jurançon Sec, Domaine Castera 2006
Moving deeper in to the Pyrenées, Jurançon is an appellation noted first and foremost for its sweet, passérillage influenced wines; thus, the dry whites from the region always carry the “sec” designation for clarification. A blend of Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, this is seriously big wine, not from oak – there is none – or rich, fat textures but rather from a combination of high acidity, intensely vinous texture and naturally high alcohol. It wears that alcohol well. Grippy texture. Loads of lime oil, wildflowers and white stone minerality. Not for casual sipping but great with food where something with cut and power is demanded. It was a brilliant match with the falafel-crusted halibut served at Talula’s and would pair extremely well with Basque sheep’s milk cheeses such as Ossau Iraty or Pyrenées Brebis. $16. 14% alcohol. Synthetic cork. Importer: Wine Traditions, Falls Church, VA.

Côtes de Bergerac, Château Haut-Bernasse 1999
Like the Blanquette de Limoux, this had been resting in my cellar for quite a few years. Unlike the Blanquette, I hadn’t planned to keep it for so long, it had just gotten away from me. I was curious to check in on its development, wondering if it would still be holding up. The color was good, a deep garnet red, semi-opaque and showing only moderate hints of maturity. Alas, a quick sniff was all it took to end the show, as the bottle was profoundly corked. Regardless of price, it’s a much bigger drag to run into a cork tainted wine when it’s been cared for so well and for so long as opposed to when it’s just come home from the wine shop. This bottle was stoppered with one of those hideously cheap composite corks that seem to be even more prone to TCA infection than “whole” corks. $14 on release. 12% alcohol. Natural cork composite. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.

Cahors, Clos la Coutale (V. Bernede & Fils) 2004
A more than adequate stand-in for the spoiled Bergerac. When first opened, this showed classic Cahors rusticity, with wooly, stewed black fruits and earthy, iron-like aromas. Tannins were not as intense as in some of the more powerful wines of Cahors but were still typically dusty and chunky. As it opened, purer blackberry and plum emerged. Texture became more refined. Then, as the night wore on, country wine character returned, with aromas of tar and sun-baked rocks leading to a finish laced with hints of clay, leather and sour black cherries. An excellent value, this would be great to keep around for summer grilling. $17. 12.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA.

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Dmitri's

When I moved to the Philly area fifteen odd years ago, Dmitri’s was one of the first spots that made me instantly fall in love with the town’s food scene. While that dining scene has grown, diversified and improved since then, Dmitri’s hasn’t budged an inch. The location and décor are still the same. Prices have escalated only in step with inflation. The menu hasn’t changed. Yet it somehow has avoided being passed by, comfortably maintaining a sense of timelessness. Hell, some of the same servers and kitchen staff I first encountered way back when are still to be found working the floor several nights a week. It’s a Philadelphia institution I’d hate to have to do without. I’d happily swear off cheesesteaks, soft pretzels and scrapple before I’d give up a seat at Dmitri’s.


I usually like to filet my own fish but that's a rather tough job when four people are seated at a table built for two. Besides, the lovely Angela performs the task more elegantly than I would. At right, a moment of repose for the amazingly efficient kitchen staff.
Dishes here are best shared. The small space and tiny tables almost demand it, as does the family style of service. Plates are delivered as they’re ready and often don’t make it to the table before diners dive in for a forkful. This is Philadelphia’s original home of the small plate/large plate menu. The only challenge that can present is just how much to order. It’s a great spot to go with a huge appetite and a group of friends. But it can just as easily be treated as a solid source for a quick solo meal at the small open kitchen bar. Just don’t go expecting creative nuances or of the moment ingredients.

Dmitri’s is all about simple food, simply prepared and simply presented. Grilling, broiling, sautéing and deep-frying are the cooking methods of choice, applied with an equally deft hand to a variety of seafood. Salty fried smelts, zesty sautéed mussels and snappy grilled octopus are all favorites of mine, along with consistently moist and fresh whole grilled fish. When in season, softshell crabs are a house specialty. The seriously good split babaganouj and hummus plate, served with warm pita triangles and a dish of dipping oil, makes a great communal starter.

Typical scenes on the table at Dmitri's. Space is at a premium and plates rarely stay untouched long enough for a photo.
I generally find “no reservations” policies irksome; however, it makes total sense in this tiny space. Service is quick, turnover is rapid and, although Dmitri’s pulls diners from all over the region along with its share of more adventurous tourists, it’s essentially a neighborhood joint. On weekends, be prepared to arrive before the doors open early in the evening or else for a wait that can range up to two hours at peak. The bar at the New Wave Café, handily located across the street, doubles as Dmitri’s unofficial waiting room.

Along with my long-standing love affair with the original Dmitri’s, the main reason I never give a second thought to the “new” Dmitri’s location near Fitler Square is simple. Dmitri’s Queen Village branch is a BYOB. It’s not a place for big, rich or complicated wine of any sort. Don’t bother toting along your favorite California Cab or Meursault. Save one dish – the grilled lamb – the menu is geared completely toward crispy, dry, aromatic whites and rosés. Dry Sherry – Fino or Manzanilla, ideally – makes for a perfect starter to accompany many of the small seafood plates. Reds can work, obviously with the lamb but also with the grilled fish or salmon. Just keep them lively and fresh. The red I hauled along on my most recent visit, Vin de Table Français “La Guerrerie,” a Malbec/Gamay blend from Clos du Tue-Boeuf in the Loire, was wild, funky and, as it turned out, a pretty interesting match with both the grilled medallions of lamb and the grilled red snapper.

If you live in the Philly area and haven’t been to Dmitri’s or if you’re visiting from out of town for more than one evening you owe a meal there to yourself.

Dmitri’s
795 S. 3rd Street (at Catherine)
Philadelphia, PA 19147
(215) 625-0556

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