Some Recent Tastes

Just a few bottles I've enjoyed with meals and/or with friends over the last couple of weeks that didn't make their way to full posts but were more than worthy of mention. I really do need to get back to Exploring Burgundy. And I can never get enough Riesling.

Mosel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese #19, Alfred Merkelbach 2005
Far from profound but nonetheless well balanced and brimming with green apple, white peach and transparent slatiness. A confectionery hint on the rear palate picks up on the wine’s residual aspects more so than up front. A food friendly style, this would make a lovely companion to seared scallops or lightly cured ham.
$20. 9% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Michael Skurnik (a Terry Theise Selection), Syosset, NY.

Petit Chablis, Domaine Vincent Dauvissat 2004
Oyster shells and a bit of fishing pier funk on the nose. Very mineral, medium in scale, and just starting to develop a not unattractive oxidative note, followed by plenty of bitter lemon fruit. Drinking very well at the moment, it should continue to deliver immense pleasure (in spite of the pier funk) in the short term.
$20. 12.5% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

Chablis, Domaine Laurent Tribut 2006
Hitting lots of high notes. Steely, bright and very tight, this should begin to get interesting in another year. Good length, with plentiful limestone-driven mineral character.
$25. 12.5% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

Chablis Premier Cru “La Forest,” Domaine Vincent Dauvissat 2005
There’s breed showing through here, on a stony, gunflint driven frame, with green pear and lemon oil accents. However, it’s disjointed and a tad hot. Needs time to come around to a better place.
$40. 13% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

Dolcetto d’Alba “Coste & Fossati,” G.D. Vajra 2005
Burton Anderson singled out Vajra’s “Coste & Fossati” as the only Albese Dolcetto worthy of inclusion in his wine guide, Burton Anderson's Best Italian Wines. While I enjoy plenty of other Dolcetti d’Alba, I’m inclined to agree with his summation. This is a pleasure to drink in its youth but possesses an aromatic depth and a certain elegance that is less evident in most other Dolcetto. Dark cherry fruit, crushed flowers and freshly turned, loamy earth are at once plentiful yet subtly expressed on both the nose and palate. Very delicate, finely grained tannins. Worthy of your best Burgundy glass, where the aromas of most other Dolcetti might be prone to fall apart. Not as intense as the 2004 but still lovely, it’s just starting to come out of its shell and should hold and develop well for another five years.
$29. 14% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; Martin Scott, New York, NY.

Chianti Classico, Isole e Olena 2004
Translucent ruby in the glass and lovely right out of the gates, with pure cherry fruit, laced with rosemary accents. After 30-45 minutes of air, it becomes more clearly delineated, with the cherry taking on a sweet yet graceful vanillin tone thanks to a well-executed aging regimen in large, old oak casks. Bright acidity provides lift, lively tannins give texture and, with more air, spice notes drive home the fruit. On day two, the wine is darker, rounder and feels richer in the mouth if a bit more diffuse than on day one. Yummy stuff, built for food.
$21. 13.5% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; Martin Scott, New York, NY.