Monday, December 6, 2010

Trestle on Tenth

After years of hearing little other than praise for Trestle on Tenth—from the food, to the wine program, to the vibe—I finally made it there on a recent trip to New York.  You know what?  I wasn't disappointed.

Tucked away on an unassuming Chelsea corner, way out west on 10th Avenue, one might be forgiven for thinking of it as a neighborhood-only kind of spot.  Given the quality of its food (based on one meal and lots of said praise), the wine program and the vibe, though, I'd happily put it on the destination list, especially for those who value substance over flash and are satisfied by comfort and solid yet unfussy service as much as if not more so than by the grand dining experience.

Add to its own allure the fact that Trestle on Tenth sits in a quiet yet charming district, close enough to shopping and galleries to be convenient yet far enough away to escape the scrum, and I'd say it's a pretty good recipe for dining and imbibing happiness.  Appellation Wine & Spirits is just a few blocks down 10th Ave., as is a very cool little independent book shop called 192 Books, and a stairway up to the High Line is located withing crawling distance of T on T's front door.  Not a bad way to spend a Sunday afternoon—and exactly how I started mine.

It was one of those days when I wasn't inclined to check out a little bit of everything on the menu. No, what was needed was one dish, something comforting, something satisfying, something that called to me via the few words used to evoke its merits via Trestle on Tenth's admirably succinct menu descriptions.

That dish was duck confit hash with poached eggs and sauce béarnaise.  It wasn't all that pretty to look at (my flash didn't help), but my stomach didn't care.  It was delicious.  Hearty and heady, with expertly executed poached eggs beneath a generous dollop of bérnaise, all atop an already ample stick-to-your-ribs plateful of shredded duck confit and roasted potatoes.  If you're of the one meal a day ilk, look no further; I of course did eat dinner later that evening but easily could have done without.  A perfect one dish wonder it's not—the hash was a dab on the greasy side and the overall dish could have benefited from a shot of acidity to cut and balance its intense richness—but I wasn't complaining.  It's not exactly what the doctor would order... but it's exactly what I was craving.

Besides, there's always wine to help out in the cut and balance department.  Domaine Arretxea's 2007 Irouléguy "Hegoxuri" Blanc, one of the many fairly priced gems on Trestle's smart list, had the requisite acidity, muscle and savor for the dish.

I hear tell they do fondue, too....

Trestle on Tenth
242 Tenth Avenue
(at 24th Street)
New York, NY 10001
(212) 645-5659
Trestle on Tenth on Urbanspoon


lars makie said...

Well, I can't believe no one's thrown Trestle any love yet. I'll chime in and say I went there when I was in NYC last Sept and loved it. I didn't have much, but the people who recommended it said to get the charcuterie, and that's what I did. Saddled up to the bar by myself, got a bottle of '07 C. Pacalet Chiroubles and proceeded to try and give myself gout. Didn't get gout, but did enjoy the paté, the wine and the space. They also had duck necks there that looked so, so good (maybe next time).

Also, swung by Appellation on my way there and grabbed a couple bottles of Tissot Trousseau. Nice little place.

David McDuff said...

Tell me about it, Lars... Anyway, thanks for chiming in yourself. I was very tempted to try some of the charcuterie myself but it was just one of those days where a one dish meal was the way to go. Next time follow up the charcuterie spread with the duck confit hash -- your gout wish might just come true!

As for stopping by Appellation, I was very tempted by mags of Lapierre Morgon (as well as by Mercurey from Dominique Derain) but couldn't bring myself to schlep the bottles around the city all day. Definitely an attractive little shop.

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