Unmotivated this weekend, so here's an old track from the vaults. Philly Beer Week action and B-sides coming soon.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Three Days with Les Clos Sacrés
As much as I love Loire wine and Chenin in particular, it’s alarming (at least to me) how little firsthand experience I actually have with the Savennières of Nicolas Joly. I somehow suspect I’m not alone in that camp, as Joly’s wines seem to be talked and written about more often than they’re actually drunk. Or is it his farming and winemaking practices more so than the wines themselves that get all the attention? Whatever the case, I was happy to help shift the balance recently, spending time over the course of three days with a bottle of his 2006 “Les Clos Sacrés.”
Savennières “Les Clos Sacrés,” Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines (Nicolas Joly) 2006. $45. 13.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY.
Called “Les Vieux Clos” (and formerly “Becherelle”) on the French market, Joly’s entry-level Savennières is rechristened “Les Clos Sacrés” for the US market. At upwards of $40/bottle, about twice the price of other producers’ basic bottlings, “entry-level” may not be quite the right term. Be that as it may, this is Joly’s front-line offering, produced from relatively young vines spread across 12 hectares of vineyards planted in schist-dominated soils, along with some parcels of quartzite and sandy soils. As with all three of Nicolas’ Savennières, fermentation occurs on the natural yeasts with no temperature control, followed by aging in old oak casks. Sulfur is used in both the vineyard and the cellar, though at very minimal levels.
Notes on Joly’s wines are rife with accounts of bottle variation, so let me begin by saying that this was much more than just perfectly sound.
On day one, “Les Clos Sacrés” was driven by energetic, near savage acidity and bracingly herbal aromas of quinine and menthol. Its acid and extract levels resulted in stick-to-your-teeth texture and length. Very, very persistent. Butterscotch came through on the mid-palate, along with a mineral sensation that I often find with good Savennières, as if I’m drinking wine that’s been leeched through rocks and dripped directly into my glass. With air and a gentle rise in temperature, the wine took on greater aromatic depth, revealing scents of chamomile and sweet herbal tea. A sense of sweetness – though the wine is nearly bone dry – continued to build in the flavor department, the marmalade-like flavor influence of partially botrytized fruit becoming more apparent.
Twenty-four hours later, the waxy and wooly side of Loire Chenin made its appearance, along with a discreet and quite pleasant hint of oxidative aromatic character. The wine was also even more potently aromatic, with flowers, dried herbs and tea leading the way. It was richer, too, in the mouth than on day one. I couldn’t help thinking of a cross between Ricola, nougat and marzipan. More so than a day earlier, I sensed the influence of what I expect is just a couple of grams of residual sugar. Very grippy and very lengthy, the wine, as Joly suggests, is also very good at or near room temperature. By the end of the night, the aromatic profile had shifted again, this time toward scents of oil soap (as in Murphy’s) and peaty single malt Scotch.
That peaty character carried through to the third day. There was also a shift in color, but rather than getting darker golden I’d swear the wine began to take on a pink hue. Intense aromas of apple cider at one end contrasted with the lightness of rose petals at the other, while in the mouth the wine delivered an impression of a freshly baked apple tart kissed subtly by the nuttiness and brininess of fino sherry.
Word is that these wines sometimes hold up well for an entire week after opening. There’s no way this bottle was going to last that long.
* * *
As I suggested earlier, there’s plenty to read about Joly's wines. If you’re hungry for more, you’ll find an excellent profile of the Coulée de Serrant, along with some recently updated tasting notes, at The Wine Doctor.
Savennières “Les Clos Sacrés,” Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines (Nicolas Joly) 2006. $45. 13.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY.
Called “Les Vieux Clos” (and formerly “Becherelle”) on the French market, Joly’s entry-level Savennières is rechristened “Les Clos Sacrés” for the US market. At upwards of $40/bottle, about twice the price of other producers’ basic bottlings, “entry-level” may not be quite the right term. Be that as it may, this is Joly’s front-line offering, produced from relatively young vines spread across 12 hectares of vineyards planted in schist-dominated soils, along with some parcels of quartzite and sandy soils. As with all three of Nicolas’ Savennières, fermentation occurs on the natural yeasts with no temperature control, followed by aging in old oak casks. Sulfur is used in both the vineyard and the cellar, though at very minimal levels.
Notes on Joly’s wines are rife with accounts of bottle variation, so let me begin by saying that this was much more than just perfectly sound.
On day one, “Les Clos Sacrés” was driven by energetic, near savage acidity and bracingly herbal aromas of quinine and menthol. Its acid and extract levels resulted in stick-to-your-teeth texture and length. Very, very persistent. Butterscotch came through on the mid-palate, along with a mineral sensation that I often find with good Savennières, as if I’m drinking wine that’s been leeched through rocks and dripped directly into my glass. With air and a gentle rise in temperature, the wine took on greater aromatic depth, revealing scents of chamomile and sweet herbal tea. A sense of sweetness – though the wine is nearly bone dry – continued to build in the flavor department, the marmalade-like flavor influence of partially botrytized fruit becoming more apparent.
Twenty-four hours later, the waxy and wooly side of Loire Chenin made its appearance, along with a discreet and quite pleasant hint of oxidative aromatic character. The wine was also even more potently aromatic, with flowers, dried herbs and tea leading the way. It was richer, too, in the mouth than on day one. I couldn’t help thinking of a cross between Ricola, nougat and marzipan. More so than a day earlier, I sensed the influence of what I expect is just a couple of grams of residual sugar. Very grippy and very lengthy, the wine, as Joly suggests, is also very good at or near room temperature. By the end of the night, the aromatic profile had shifted again, this time toward scents of oil soap (as in Murphy’s) and peaty single malt Scotch.That peaty character carried through to the third day. There was also a shift in color, but rather than getting darker golden I’d swear the wine began to take on a pink hue. Intense aromas of apple cider at one end contrasted with the lightness of rose petals at the other, while in the mouth the wine delivered an impression of a freshly baked apple tart kissed subtly by the nuttiness and brininess of fino sherry.
Word is that these wines sometimes hold up well for an entire week after opening. There’s no way this bottle was going to last that long.
As I suggested earlier, there’s plenty to read about Joly's wines. If you’re hungry for more, you’ll find an excellent profile of the Coulée de Serrant, along with some recently updated tasting notes, at The Wine Doctor.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
MFWT Turns Two Today
Today marks the second anniversary of this thing called McDuff’s Food & Wine Trail. A lot of momentous stuff has occurred here – not to mention around the world – over the course of those two years. Yet a look back at some earlier milestones reminds me of just how little has changed in many ways, and of just how quickly time seems to have passed. My first post ever was a short announcement about a wine and food event I was hosting. By odd coincidence, I hosted another wine pairing dinner for the very same restaurateur, though at a different establishment, just last night. (Chef Harvey dished up some really good food at Bistro on the Brandywine, by the way. Who knew duck confit would take so well to being deep fried in tempura batter?)
Re-reading the comments on my one year blogiversary posting, I realize that I’ve fallen even more absurdly behind in writing up winery profiles from my last couple of trips to Europe, even though I did manage to scratch a few off the list.
More importantly, I realize that just about all of the people who took the time to comment back then are still hanging around the Trail today. So my thanks go out to all of them, and to everyone who's reading this, for being such steadfast visitors here at MFWT. It would be tough to do it without you.
Two years down and bloggin’…. I hope you’ll stay with me for the third.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Guest Post: Do Bianchi Does Barbaresco
If you've been visiting here for any length of time, you know by now that I’m a big fan of Jeremy Parzen’s blog, Do Bianchi. Whether he’s writing about the pleasures of orange wine, controversies afoot in the world of vini Italiano or the joys and rigors of touring with his band, Nous Non Plus, Jeremy’s work is always on point, insightful and entertaining.
When he wrote me a while back, to self-flagellate for having missed Wine Blogging Wednesday, “A Passion for Piedmont,” I told him he could make it up to me by guest blogging here at MFWT. Happily, he agreed to do just that. Doubly happily, he recruited a willing collaborator, his sweetheart Tracie B. of My Life Italian, to take the candid photos you’ll see below.
If you’re already a regular reader of Do Bianchi – and if you’re not, you should be! – Jeremy’s topic of choice will come as no surprise.
The podium is all yours, Dr. Parzen.
* * *
One of the things I love the most about Produttori del Barbaresco is how its winemaking practices have remained virtually unchanged since it began making Barbaresco in 1958 (technically the winery was launched as a Cantina Sociale in 1894). Few Italian winemakers can rival this iconic label for the terroir- and vintage-driven characteristics of the wines.
And as much as I love its single-vineyard expressions of Nebbiolo, my favorite is always the blended classic Barbaresco: on my palate, these are the truest expressions of Barbaresco and its unique power and elegance because they represent an overarching manifestation of the entire appellation, made from grapes grown by multiple growers across the territory. Each year, the best grapes from the best growing sites go into this wine. How do you determine where the best rows are? Simple: just observe where the snow melts first, they will tell you. 1967 and 1982 are two memorable vintages of the classic Barbaresco that I have tasted over the last few years (and I've tasted the crus going back to the late 70s): the wines of today are very true to the winery's beautiful, natural terroir-driven style.
The 2004 is surely to be one of the great vintages of this decade and the winery compares it to the "mythic 1990." I've tasted it a number of times over the last year and it seems to be closing up right now and showing more tight than it was last summer. I believe it's going through a tannic period of its development and as much of a joy as it is to drink it, I think it's best to lay it down for a while. I want to revisit it again around Christmas and see where it's at.
Although 2005 was a very good vintage and classic in its profile (part of a string a good vintages, 04, 05, and 06), unusually high temperatures in September made for a wine with fruit more forward than the 2004. Unfortunately, this more "American-friendly" vintage has driven up the price slightly. It showed wonderfully in the tasting the other day and while I don't think it will age quite as long as the 2004, I think this is an excellent Barbaresco that we can enjoy sooner than later.
2006 was another classic vintage, although again warmer than the 2004. I was thrilled to taste the 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo (made from fruit not destined for the Barbaresco) and I think it's an excellent value for the quality. I like to call it my "Saturday night wine" (the Barbaresco is a "special occasion" wine at my table).
I've translated the winery's 2006 vintage notes below.
My advice: buy these wines, drink them, lay them down, live with them, pair them with food, save a glass of each and taste it the next day, open them on special occasions, revisit them, record your impressions, blog them... They never disappoint and their value simply cannot be beat.
When he wrote me a while back, to self-flagellate for having missed Wine Blogging Wednesday, “A Passion for Piedmont,” I told him he could make it up to me by guest blogging here at MFWT. Happily, he agreed to do just that. Doubly happily, he recruited a willing collaborator, his sweetheart Tracie B. of My Life Italian, to take the candid photos you’ll see below.
If you’re already a regular reader of Do Bianchi – and if you’re not, you should be! – Jeremy’s topic of choice will come as no surprise.
The podium is all yours, Dr. Parzen.
One of the things I love the most about Produttori del Barbaresco is how its winemaking practices have remained virtually unchanged since it began making Barbaresco in 1958 (technically the winery was launched as a Cantina Sociale in 1894). Few Italian winemakers can rival this iconic label for the terroir- and vintage-driven characteristics of the wines. And as much as I love its single-vineyard expressions of Nebbiolo, my favorite is always the blended classic Barbaresco: on my palate, these are the truest expressions of Barbaresco and its unique power and elegance because they represent an overarching manifestation of the entire appellation, made from grapes grown by multiple growers across the territory. Each year, the best grapes from the best growing sites go into this wine. How do you determine where the best rows are? Simple: just observe where the snow melts first, they will tell you. 1967 and 1982 are two memorable vintages of the classic Barbaresco that I have tasted over the last few years (and I've tasted the crus going back to the late 70s): the wines of today are very true to the winery's beautiful, natural terroir-driven style.
The 2004 is surely to be one of the great vintages of this decade and the winery compares it to the "mythic 1990." I've tasted it a number of times over the last year and it seems to be closing up right now and showing more tight than it was last summer. I believe it's going through a tannic period of its development and as much of a joy as it is to drink it, I think it's best to lay it down for a while. I want to revisit it again around Christmas and see where it's at.
Although 2005 was a very good vintage and classic in its profile (part of a string a good vintages, 04, 05, and 06), unusually high temperatures in September made for a wine with fruit more forward than the 2004. Unfortunately, this more "American-friendly" vintage has driven up the price slightly. It showed wonderfully in the tasting the other day and while I don't think it will age quite as long as the 2004, I think this is an excellent Barbaresco that we can enjoy sooner than later.
2006 was another classic vintage, although again warmer than the 2004. I was thrilled to taste the 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo (made from fruit not destined for the Barbaresco) and I think it's an excellent value for the quality. I like to call it my "Saturday night wine" (the Barbaresco is a "special occasion" wine at my table).
I've translated the winery's 2006 vintage notes below.
- The 2006 vintage began with nice spring weather. The warm temperatures in the first half of May caused early flowering around May 25 (flowering usually occurs in early June for Nebbiolo). Temperatures lowered at the beginning of June but without adversely affecting the flowering and fruit set of the vines. These conditions led to an abundant harvest. July brought temperatures higher than average. But August saw milder and more pleasant weather with warm days alternated with cooler and more ventilated days. Unlike other regions in Italy, rainfall was scarce and as a result, the season was relatively dry, especially for vineyards with the best exposure, which were warmer and drier. The abundant amount of fruit made summer thinning all the more important in order to rebalance production and allow for good ripening.
September arrived with healthy fruit with somewhat high sugar levels. But the development of the fruit and its aromas was however delayed, especially in the warmest vineyards with the best exposure. Two intense September rainstorms marked a break from otherwise summery conditions. The first happened around September 10 and this actually helped aromatic ripening to begin again and thus was helpful. The second rainfall arrived later, on September 25 and 26, when the fruit was already ripe. At that point, there was no point in waiting any more and as soon as the sun dried the fruit, we began to harvest on September 29 and we finished picking on October 7 after nine days of good weather that allowed us to harvest excellent, healthy fruit.
2006 Barbaresco will be an excellent Barbaresco with natural alcoholic content higher than 13.5%, with intense color and good acidity. A good wine for aging, from another vintage in a string of good vintages including 2004 and 2005.
My advice: buy these wines, drink them, lay them down, live with them, pair them with food, save a glass of each and taste it the next day, open them on special occasions, revisit them, record your impressions, blog them... They never disappoint and their value simply cannot be beat.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Highlights from the Boutique Wine Collection 2009 National Portfolio Tasting
Yesterday, I spent a relaxing afternoon tasting through some of the current lineup coming into the US courtesy of importer Bryce McNamee’s Boutique Wine Collection. Boutique held their 2009 National Portfolio Tasting over the course of the weekend in Center City Philadelphia. Unlike their tasting at the Moore College of Art last fall, this weekend’s event focused solely on the wines in Boutique’s direct book. While the core of that book remains based on Bryce’s work in Spain and South Africa, they’ve made a couple of significant additions to their French portfolio in recent months.
The perspective from the 33rd floor of the Loews Hotel, in the old PSFS building, provided some fantastic panoramic views of downtown Philadelphia.
The highest profile of those French additions must certainly be the old Sancerre estate of the Mellot family, the Domaine de la Moussière. Alphonse Mellot Sr. and Jr. (Alphonse is the favored family surname) produce opulent Sancerre based on severe fruit selection from their low yielding, biodynamically farmed vineyards in the commune of Sancerre itself. A freshly bottled sample of their 2008 Sancerre Blanc “La Demoiselle” was one of the standouts of the entire tasting, full of high-toned gooseberry and granny smith apple fruit balanced on a knife’s edge of finely detailed acidity. Mellot’s 2008 Sancerre Blanc “Satellite,” on the other hand, was initially dense and wrapped up with the influence of its time spent in foudres. Returning to it three hours later, though, it was another wine entirely – creamy, mineral rich and hinting at the possibility of very interesting development with further time in the bottle.
The other new addition to Boutique’s French folio is the Domaine du Petit Métris, a 30-hectare estate based in the AOCs of Savennières, Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. More Loire wine! I wasn’t complaining…. Petit Métris has been in the Renou family since the late 18th Century and is now run by Joseph Renou and his sons, Pascal and Hervé. The Renou’s, members of Vini Vitis, apply both organic and biodynamic techniques on the farm. Their holdings in Savennières, purchased in the 1990s, are the most recent additions to the estate and consist of two lieu-dits: Clos de la Marche and Les Fougeraies. The 2005 Clos de la Marche was my favorite of the line-up, showing the beginnings of bottle development and a classic aromatic profile, full of herbal tea and quince notes; the much less evolved ’05 “Les Fougeraies” showed a streak of menthol through its otherwise closed framework. The 2007s from both vineyards were youngsters but demonstrated the fruit-forward character of the vintage. From their holdings in Chaume, the 2005 “Les Tétuères” was pretty irresistible, while the intensely opulent aromas of their 2007 Quarts de Chaume hinted at the promise of good things to come for those who can wait.
I was again impressed by much of the range from Alsace’s Rolly Gassmann, another in Boutique’s growing stable of estates practicing biodynamie. All of Gassmann’s wines are fermented on their native yeast and showcase both varietal typicity and clear expressions of terroir. The wines are released to market only when young winemaker Pierre Gassmann deems them ready. Their 2004 Riesling “Kappelweg” vied, along with Mellot’s Sancerre “La Demoiselle,” as best of show with its brilliant yet subtle structure and a spark of wintergreen in its aromatic profile. The Pinot Gris “Rotleibel,” also from 2004, showed fantastic nerve and acidity. Two different vintages of Gewürztraminer “Oberer Weingarten” were also on point: the 2004, very drinkable at a low by Gewürz standards 12.5% alcohol , had a refined nose of orange peel and spice while the 1998 was showing fantastic bottle development. Even Gassmann’s range of Vendanges Tardives bottlings showed fine balance, from a 1997 Muscat “Moenchreben” that was surprisingly subtle despite its 258 grams of RS, to the seemingly dry finish of the 2000 Riesling “Cuvée Yves.”
Rudi Hermann was clearly proud – even if he was trying not to show it – of his Riesling Erdener Prälat Auslese Goldkapsel. The Hermann’s own a meager 1000 square meters of the 1.5 hectare Prälat vineyard, from which they produced 800 half-bottles of extremely opulent Auslese in 2006.
Continuing with Riesling, albeit of an entirely different style, the father/son team of Rudi and Christian Hermann were on hand, pouring wines from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages. Their estate, Dr. Hermann, consists of 6.5 hectares split among choice vineyard sites in the middle Mosel villages of Erden and Ürzig. It was highly instructive to taste the wines from the difficult 2006 season side-by-side with the very classic wines of 2007. There were true Kabinett wines from both Erdener Treppchen and Ürziger Würzgarten in ’07, while no Kabinett at all were produced in 2006, when even the Spätlesen were affected by botrytis (and were mostly declassified Auslesen). The standouts at the Hermann’s table, though, were two wines from 2005: the minty Erdener Treppchen Auslese that was just beginning to reveal some lovely bottle development and the Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese, produced from 80-100 year-old vines and showing intense extract. Produced from even older vines (phylloxera is unable to live in the meager soils in this part of the Mosel), the Erdener Treppchen Spätlese “Herzlay” was the star of their 2007 lineup.
As I’d completely missed the lineup from Parés Baltà at Boutique’s last event, I did my best to spend a little time with them this go ‘round. A large estate in Spain’s Penedès region, with over 700 hectares of land including nearly 180 hectares under vine, Parés Baltà has practiced organic farming principles since its inception in 1790 and is now certified organic. All fermentations, save the secondary round for their Cavas, occur on autochthonous yeasts. There’s a clear drive and ambition behind the wines. I found their entry-level efforts most enjoyable, from a crisp, floral NV Cava Brut, to the intensely toffee driven (but dry) white called “Calcari” made from 100% Xarel.lo, and on to the “Mas Petit” red, a 60/40 blend of Garnatxa and Cabernet Sauvignon that showed fresh, herbal red fruit and a bracingly tannic finish.
Markus Huber, proprietor at Weingut Huber in Austria's Traisental, spent some time comparing notes and sharing a few laughs with Christian Hermann as the tasting drew to an end. It was a pleasure tasting through Markus' wines again. For the sake of "brevity," though, I'll point you back to my older profile of his work and say only that his 2008 Gelber Muskateller, just bottled, provided a lovely and lively starting point for the entire tasting.
As you may be guessing, time was running short by the time I worked my way up to this point. A quick power tasting session – not my preferred or natural approach – was in order. Though I hardly got to taste everything, there were at least a few wines worthy of mention. There was a juicy and directly pleasing example of Bierzo “Joven,” a varietal Mencia from Bodegas y Viñedos Castro Ventosa. Scali Blanc, a small-lot blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier and Chardonnay from Willie and Tania de Waal’s property in the Voor-Paardeberg district of South Africa, was much tastier on the palate than its somewhat muted nose led me to expect. And the 2003 Cape Vintage “Port” from a winery called Axe Hill in Klein Karoo (about a four-hour drive north of Capetown) would have been right at home in a blind tasting line-up of young Vintage and LBV Ports.
Last but not least was arguably the most unusual wine in the room, a Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes “Vieilles Vignes” Blanc from the tiny producer Le Signal, situated about five kilometers west of Maury in the town of Saint Paul de Fenouillet. Based almost entirely on the fruit from 80-year-old vines of Grenache Gris, plus a dash of Macabeo, the wine was a powerhouse – in a good way. Produced very naturally, it was showing a positive touch of orange wine oxidative character along with aromas of campfire smoke, toasted brioche, caramelized pecans and garrigue, and had no problems holding its 14.5% alcohol in check.
Boutique founder Bryce McNamee and John Toler, Boutique's Wholesale Sales Manager for the PA/DE/South Jersey territory, still looking lively at the end of two long days in the saddle.
The highest profile of those French additions must certainly be the old Sancerre estate of the Mellot family, the Domaine de la Moussière. Alphonse Mellot Sr. and Jr. (Alphonse is the favored family surname) produce opulent Sancerre based on severe fruit selection from their low yielding, biodynamically farmed vineyards in the commune of Sancerre itself. A freshly bottled sample of their 2008 Sancerre Blanc “La Demoiselle” was one of the standouts of the entire tasting, full of high-toned gooseberry and granny smith apple fruit balanced on a knife’s edge of finely detailed acidity. Mellot’s 2008 Sancerre Blanc “Satellite,” on the other hand, was initially dense and wrapped up with the influence of its time spent in foudres. Returning to it three hours later, though, it was another wine entirely – creamy, mineral rich and hinting at the possibility of very interesting development with further time in the bottle.
The other new addition to Boutique’s French folio is the Domaine du Petit Métris, a 30-hectare estate based in the AOCs of Savennières, Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. More Loire wine! I wasn’t complaining…. Petit Métris has been in the Renou family since the late 18th Century and is now run by Joseph Renou and his sons, Pascal and Hervé. The Renou’s, members of Vini Vitis, apply both organic and biodynamic techniques on the farm. Their holdings in Savennières, purchased in the 1990s, are the most recent additions to the estate and consist of two lieu-dits: Clos de la Marche and Les Fougeraies. The 2005 Clos de la Marche was my favorite of the line-up, showing the beginnings of bottle development and a classic aromatic profile, full of herbal tea and quince notes; the much less evolved ’05 “Les Fougeraies” showed a streak of menthol through its otherwise closed framework. The 2007s from both vineyards were youngsters but demonstrated the fruit-forward character of the vintage. From their holdings in Chaume, the 2005 “Les Tétuères” was pretty irresistible, while the intensely opulent aromas of their 2007 Quarts de Chaume hinted at the promise of good things to come for those who can wait.
I was again impressed by much of the range from Alsace’s Rolly Gassmann, another in Boutique’s growing stable of estates practicing biodynamie. All of Gassmann’s wines are fermented on their native yeast and showcase both varietal typicity and clear expressions of terroir. The wines are released to market only when young winemaker Pierre Gassmann deems them ready. Their 2004 Riesling “Kappelweg” vied, along with Mellot’s Sancerre “La Demoiselle,” as best of show with its brilliant yet subtle structure and a spark of wintergreen in its aromatic profile. The Pinot Gris “Rotleibel,” also from 2004, showed fantastic nerve and acidity. Two different vintages of Gewürztraminer “Oberer Weingarten” were also on point: the 2004, very drinkable at a low by Gewürz standards 12.5% alcohol , had a refined nose of orange peel and spice while the 1998 was showing fantastic bottle development. Even Gassmann’s range of Vendanges Tardives bottlings showed fine balance, from a 1997 Muscat “Moenchreben” that was surprisingly subtle despite its 258 grams of RS, to the seemingly dry finish of the 2000 Riesling “Cuvée Yves.”
Continuing with Riesling, albeit of an entirely different style, the father/son team of Rudi and Christian Hermann were on hand, pouring wines from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages. Their estate, Dr. Hermann, consists of 6.5 hectares split among choice vineyard sites in the middle Mosel villages of Erden and Ürzig. It was highly instructive to taste the wines from the difficult 2006 season side-by-side with the very classic wines of 2007. There were true Kabinett wines from both Erdener Treppchen and Ürziger Würzgarten in ’07, while no Kabinett at all were produced in 2006, when even the Spätlesen were affected by botrytis (and were mostly declassified Auslesen). The standouts at the Hermann’s table, though, were two wines from 2005: the minty Erdener Treppchen Auslese that was just beginning to reveal some lovely bottle development and the Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese, produced from 80-100 year-old vines and showing intense extract. Produced from even older vines (phylloxera is unable to live in the meager soils in this part of the Mosel), the Erdener Treppchen Spätlese “Herzlay” was the star of their 2007 lineup.
As I’d completely missed the lineup from Parés Baltà at Boutique’s last event, I did my best to spend a little time with them this go ‘round. A large estate in Spain’s Penedès region, with over 700 hectares of land including nearly 180 hectares under vine, Parés Baltà has practiced organic farming principles since its inception in 1790 and is now certified organic. All fermentations, save the secondary round for their Cavas, occur on autochthonous yeasts. There’s a clear drive and ambition behind the wines. I found their entry-level efforts most enjoyable, from a crisp, floral NV Cava Brut, to the intensely toffee driven (but dry) white called “Calcari” made from 100% Xarel.lo, and on to the “Mas Petit” red, a 60/40 blend of Garnatxa and Cabernet Sauvignon that showed fresh, herbal red fruit and a bracingly tannic finish.
As you may be guessing, time was running short by the time I worked my way up to this point. A quick power tasting session – not my preferred or natural approach – was in order. Though I hardly got to taste everything, there were at least a few wines worthy of mention. There was a juicy and directly pleasing example of Bierzo “Joven,” a varietal Mencia from Bodegas y Viñedos Castro Ventosa. Scali Blanc, a small-lot blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier and Chardonnay from Willie and Tania de Waal’s property in the Voor-Paardeberg district of South Africa, was much tastier on the palate than its somewhat muted nose led me to expect. And the 2003 Cape Vintage “Port” from a winery called Axe Hill in Klein Karoo (about a four-hour drive north of Capetown) would have been right at home in a blind tasting line-up of young Vintage and LBV Ports.
Last but not least was arguably the most unusual wine in the room, a Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes “Vieilles Vignes” Blanc from the tiny producer Le Signal, situated about five kilometers west of Maury in the town of Saint Paul de Fenouillet. Based almost entirely on the fruit from 80-year-old vines of Grenache Gris, plus a dash of Macabeo, the wine was a powerhouse – in a good way. Produced very naturally, it was showing a positive touch of orange wine oxidative character along with aromas of campfire smoke, toasted brioche, caramelized pecans and garrigue, and had no problems holding its 14.5% alcohol in check.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Wouldn’t You Like to be a Winner Too?
I’m a winner. That’s right, a winner. And not just any winner. I’ve just been informed (actually, it was hours ago but I was away from the control center) that the blognoscenti have seen fit to drop a nut my way. What nut, you ask? Why, a 2009 American Squirrel Wine Blog Award, of course.
I'm told it was a close race but I just managed to edge out the other contenders in the category of Best Punk Rock Obituary (on a Wine Blog). (That parenthetical part’s mine, just in case you weren’t sure.) You’ll find the finely honed entry that won me this grand accolade here. I’m sure Lux would be proud.
What’s it all mean? Only Mr. Flores knows for sure. But at least one thing’s certain. You might be a winner, too!
Don’t miss the full awards run-down on the site of the ASWBA’s official sponsor, the Las Flores View Point Squirrel Colony.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Two Sides of Soave
Driving into the Veneto from the west on the A4 Autostrada, passing the exits for Verona en route to the turnoff for Soave, it’s not the beauty of the landscape that draws your eye. Rather, it is the massive factory complex belonging to Bolla that dominates the vista. Given the industrial wines being churned out of the region – all too often based on overcropped, dilute fruit – that view serves as a stark symbol of the fact that Soave remains a widely misunderstood wine. Even today, a couple of decades after the company’s huge marketing blasts of the 70s and 80s, the names Soave and Bolla remain inseparable in the minds of many.
When farmed well and cropped to lower yields, though, Garganega, the primary grape of Soave (it must constitute at least 70% of the blend in Soave per DOC regulations), is capable of expressing its inherent nobility. It’s also capable of turning out quite good and, more importantly, very food friendly wines. It’s also a vine, much like Chardonnay for comparison’s sake, that’s quite malleable in a winemaker’s hands.
Soave Classico “Monte de Toni,” i Stefanini 2006
$16. 13% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Domenico Selections, New York, NY.
First things first – a little disclosure: this bottle came my way as a sample from my friend, the man behind Mondosapore and burgeoning importer of Italian wines, Terence Hughes. i Stefanini was one of the first producers to sign-on with Terry’s new company, Domenico Selections. Thanks T. Now, on to the wine….
At first, I found the aromas and texture of “Monte de Toni” a bit off-putting. Dense, lactic scents and waxy mouthfeel both suggested a heavy hand in the winery. Indeed, a look at the winery’s website comfirms that the wine is enzymatically clarified, goes through malolactic fermentation and rests on its lees until bottling in the spring following harvest. Nothing terribly aggressive there… the end result is a wine of low-medium acidity and medium body. With a little time in the glass, it actually gains lightness (I know that sounds contradictory but you’ll have to trust me) and reveals the typical Soave signature of bitter almonds with slightly vegetal accents. Baked apple and dried apricot fruit follow with that unmistakable lacing of blanched almonds shining through again on the finish.
Deterred as I may have been at first sip, in the end I had a hard time putting down my glass. And that’s a much more ringing endorsement than any technical specification can provide.
Soave Classico “Ronchetto,” Umberto Portinari 2005
$15. 12.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.
Umberto Portinari’s Soave “Ronchetto” shows a crisper, more mineral expression of Soave. I have no scheda tecnica for this, but at a year older than i Stefanini’s Soave, it’s still paler in color and has retained a livelier acid profile, both of which suggest a more reductive wine making regime, certainly in steel and perhaps with a partial suppression of the malolactic. Not nearly as richly flavored either, it’s one of the highest acid examples of Soave that hasn’t achieved its acidity at the expense of ripeness and character. White pepper and lemon zest dominate aromatically, while the palate delivers seashell minerality, lemony fruit and, again, a twist of bitter almond on the finish, all on a slightly angular texture. Very food-friendly, it would be a perfect foil to fresh water fish or vegetable risotto, even if a bit less quaffable than i Stefanini’s “Monte de Toni.”
When farmed well and cropped to lower yields, though, Garganega, the primary grape of Soave (it must constitute at least 70% of the blend in Soave per DOC regulations), is capable of expressing its inherent nobility. It’s also capable of turning out quite good and, more importantly, very food friendly wines. It’s also a vine, much like Chardonnay for comparison’s sake, that’s quite malleable in a winemaker’s hands.
Soave Classico “Monte de Toni,” i Stefanini 2006
$16. 13% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Domenico Selections, New York, NY.
First things first – a little disclosure: this bottle came my way as a sample from my friend, the man behind Mondosapore and burgeoning importer of Italian wines, Terence Hughes. i Stefanini was one of the first producers to sign-on with Terry’s new company, Domenico Selections. Thanks T. Now, on to the wine….
At first, I found the aromas and texture of “Monte de Toni” a bit off-putting. Dense, lactic scents and waxy mouthfeel both suggested a heavy hand in the winery. Indeed, a look at the winery’s website comfirms that the wine is enzymatically clarified, goes through malolactic fermentation and rests on its lees until bottling in the spring following harvest. Nothing terribly aggressive there… the end result is a wine of low-medium acidity and medium body. With a little time in the glass, it actually gains lightness (I know that sounds contradictory but you’ll have to trust me) and reveals the typical Soave signature of bitter almonds with slightly vegetal accents. Baked apple and dried apricot fruit follow with that unmistakable lacing of blanched almonds shining through again on the finish.
Deterred as I may have been at first sip, in the end I had a hard time putting down my glass. And that’s a much more ringing endorsement than any technical specification can provide.
Soave Classico “Ronchetto,” Umberto Portinari 2005
$15. 12.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.
Umberto Portinari’s Soave “Ronchetto” shows a crisper, more mineral expression of Soave. I have no scheda tecnica for this, but at a year older than i Stefanini’s Soave, it’s still paler in color and has retained a livelier acid profile, both of which suggest a more reductive wine making regime, certainly in steel and perhaps with a partial suppression of the malolactic. Not nearly as richly flavored either, it’s one of the highest acid examples of Soave that hasn’t achieved its acidity at the expense of ripeness and character. White pepper and lemon zest dominate aromatically, while the palate delivers seashell minerality, lemony fruit and, again, a twist of bitter almond on the finish, all on a slightly angular texture. Very food-friendly, it would be a perfect foil to fresh water fish or vegetable risotto, even if a bit less quaffable than i Stefanini’s “Monte de Toni.”
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Hana and von Hövel
Sometimes simple is best.
It’s remarkable how the most authentic restaurants – much like the most expressive or individualistic wines – polarize their audiences. The clearer the voice, the more people seem to either love it or hate it, leaving very little room for the middle ground. So I couldn’t help but chuckle at what I found today when looking up the phone number for Hana, one of my favorite Japanese restaurants on the non-Jersey side of the Philly burbs.
Hana may not easily win your heart. It’s not at the level of the Jersey spots – Fuji and Sagami – I hinted at above. And Hana’s not likely to win awards. It’s a non-descript looking restaurant located in a non-descript strip mall on a busy, commercial stretch of road. There’s nothing flashy about its interior: just a few basic booths and tables, a five-seat sushi bar, a couple of hanging paper lamps and neutral walls decorated with a modicum of traditional Japanese artwork and knickknacks. And there’s nothing flashy about the food. The rolls don’t have cute names and don’t sprout spines or include intentionally international ingredients. There aren’t any sushi “boats” or any strips of plastic grass adorning the plates. No spicy mayo or cream cheese oozing here and there, either.
What you get is simple food – spartan almost – that’s simply prepared. It’s fresh, pure of flavor and clearly made with care. It’s not all about the sushi and sashimi, though they’re very good. The cooked dishes are also excellent, from belly warming tempura udon to handmade pork shumai to perfectly pickled and refreshing vegetable sunomono. The service is quiet – never forward but always attentive. I’ve not been to Japan but something tells me this is the real deal, a notion seconded by old friends who eat at Hana and have spent time in Japan.
I love it. But apparently, lots of people hate it. Citysearch is not a site I ever use intentionally but it appeared at the top of the Google listings recently when I searched for “Hana Japanese restaurant Wayne PA.” All I wanted was a phone number. What I found was a bunch of user reviews that careened from spiteful to glowing then right back to downright awful.
* * *
Sometimes simple can be complicated.
Hana is a BYOB spot. When I go there, I invariably take Riesling. It’s become a stereotypical pairing with all variety of Asian cuisines. In this case, the stereotype delivers substance.
Saar Riesling, von Hövel 2007
$17. 8% alcohol. Screwcap. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, San Marcos, CA.
A growing number of respected wineries in Germany are producing simple, value-oriented bottlings for the export market. A quick look at the front label of this example from Weingut von Hövel reveals little other than the producer’s name and the grape in the bottle, Riesling in this case. There’s also a pretty picture, a definite change from the classically prosaic labeling style used by most producers for their higher-level wines. In at least one sense, this simplicity no doubt works in the wine’s favor, as people who have developed a comfort level with Riesling (but perhaps not with the complexities of German labeling syntax) are likely to be drawn to the bottle. That simplicity also works in the winery’s favor, as the lack of any village, vineyard or Pradikat designation leaves the producer free to blend wines from multiple sites and, if deemed necessary, to chaptalize.
That very simplicity, though, is just as likely to be misunderstood, to play right into unjust stereotypes. A savvy Riesling shopper might spot the 8% alcohol level designated in small print on the back label of the bottle and surmise that the presence of residual sugar is a strong likelihood. Given the simplicity of the front label, though, the absence of any equally simple mention of style (dry, off-dry, etc.) is very likely to result in misunderstanding. The same people that dismiss Hana for its lack of flash or its dainty portions – or anyone, for that matter – might be just as likely to write-off von Hövel’s Riesling because it’s light or, more likely, because it’s “sweet.” And that would be a shame.
Von Hövel’s Saar Riesling is simplicity embodied. It’s light, direct and easy to like. And yes, it’s a little sweet. But it’s a classic expression of Saar Riesling, its hint of sweetness balanced by wiry acidity and its finish crackling with pungent, slate-y minerality. That gentle sweetness helps the wine work with the vinegar in sunomono. Its acidity provides lift to the weight of the rice (just a touch gummy and under-seasoned on our most recent visit to Hana) in nigiri and provides more than enough cut for the natural oils of salmon, hamachi and other salt water fish. The wine’s vaguely sour minerality intertwines effortlessly with the flavors of the sea expressed in sushi and sashimi. Its pretty expression of apples, white peaches and lemons does not overwhelm the palate. And its overall delicacy is in fine balance with the grace and harmony of a typical Japanese meal.
It’s a pure, expressive wine. And much like a no-nonsense, traditional Japanese restaurant, it's just as likely to be despised as it is to be embraced.
Hana
387 W. Lancaster Avenue [map]
Wayne, PA 19087
610-687-3320
It’s remarkable how the most authentic restaurants – much like the most expressive or individualistic wines – polarize their audiences. The clearer the voice, the more people seem to either love it or hate it, leaving very little room for the middle ground. So I couldn’t help but chuckle at what I found today when looking up the phone number for Hana, one of my favorite Japanese restaurants on the non-Jersey side of the Philly burbs.
Hana may not easily win your heart. It’s not at the level of the Jersey spots – Fuji and Sagami – I hinted at above. And Hana’s not likely to win awards. It’s a non-descript looking restaurant located in a non-descript strip mall on a busy, commercial stretch of road. There’s nothing flashy about its interior: just a few basic booths and tables, a five-seat sushi bar, a couple of hanging paper lamps and neutral walls decorated with a modicum of traditional Japanese artwork and knickknacks. And there’s nothing flashy about the food. The rolls don’t have cute names and don’t sprout spines or include intentionally international ingredients. There aren’t any sushi “boats” or any strips of plastic grass adorning the plates. No spicy mayo or cream cheese oozing here and there, either.
What you get is simple food – spartan almost – that’s simply prepared. It’s fresh, pure of flavor and clearly made with care. It’s not all about the sushi and sashimi, though they’re very good. The cooked dishes are also excellent, from belly warming tempura udon to handmade pork shumai to perfectly pickled and refreshing vegetable sunomono. The service is quiet – never forward but always attentive. I’ve not been to Japan but something tells me this is the real deal, a notion seconded by old friends who eat at Hana and have spent time in Japan.
I love it. But apparently, lots of people hate it. Citysearch is not a site I ever use intentionally but it appeared at the top of the Google listings recently when I searched for “Hana Japanese restaurant Wayne PA.” All I wanted was a phone number. What I found was a bunch of user reviews that careened from spiteful to glowing then right back to downright awful.
Sometimes simple can be complicated.
Hana is a BYOB spot. When I go there, I invariably take Riesling. It’s become a stereotypical pairing with all variety of Asian cuisines. In this case, the stereotype delivers substance.
Saar Riesling, von Hövel 2007$17. 8% alcohol. Screwcap. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, San Marcos, CA.
A growing number of respected wineries in Germany are producing simple, value-oriented bottlings for the export market. A quick look at the front label of this example from Weingut von Hövel reveals little other than the producer’s name and the grape in the bottle, Riesling in this case. There’s also a pretty picture, a definite change from the classically prosaic labeling style used by most producers for their higher-level wines. In at least one sense, this simplicity no doubt works in the wine’s favor, as people who have developed a comfort level with Riesling (but perhaps not with the complexities of German labeling syntax) are likely to be drawn to the bottle. That simplicity also works in the winery’s favor, as the lack of any village, vineyard or Pradikat designation leaves the producer free to blend wines from multiple sites and, if deemed necessary, to chaptalize.
That very simplicity, though, is just as likely to be misunderstood, to play right into unjust stereotypes. A savvy Riesling shopper might spot the 8% alcohol level designated in small print on the back label of the bottle and surmise that the presence of residual sugar is a strong likelihood. Given the simplicity of the front label, though, the absence of any equally simple mention of style (dry, off-dry, etc.) is very likely to result in misunderstanding. The same people that dismiss Hana for its lack of flash or its dainty portions – or anyone, for that matter – might be just as likely to write-off von Hövel’s Riesling because it’s light or, more likely, because it’s “sweet.” And that would be a shame.
Von Hövel’s Saar Riesling is simplicity embodied. It’s light, direct and easy to like. And yes, it’s a little sweet. But it’s a classic expression of Saar Riesling, its hint of sweetness balanced by wiry acidity and its finish crackling with pungent, slate-y minerality. That gentle sweetness helps the wine work with the vinegar in sunomono. Its acidity provides lift to the weight of the rice (just a touch gummy and under-seasoned on our most recent visit to Hana) in nigiri and provides more than enough cut for the natural oils of salmon, hamachi and other salt water fish. The wine’s vaguely sour minerality intertwines effortlessly with the flavors of the sea expressed in sushi and sashimi. Its pretty expression of apples, white peaches and lemons does not overwhelm the palate. And its overall delicacy is in fine balance with the grace and harmony of a typical Japanese meal.
It’s a pure, expressive wine. And much like a no-nonsense, traditional Japanese restaurant, it's just as likely to be despised as it is to be embraced.
Hana
387 W. Lancaster Avenue [map]
Wayne, PA 19087
610-687-3320
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Vote Besotted, Vote Wicker
The judges have weeded through the hundreds of nominations and selected their finalists for the 2009 American Wine Blog Awards.
The polling place is open now through March 4, so hightail it over there and have at it.
The polling place is open now through March 4, so hightail it over there and have at it.
Three Weeks ‘Til WBW 55
As host of last week's edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, it seems only right that I should help spread the word about next month’s meeting of the wines. Rémy Charest will take the reins for WBW 55. He’s selected what looks to be a wide-open but also quite challenging topic: North vs. South.It’s not meant to have politico-historical overtones. There’s nothing to do with Vietnam, Korea, the Civil War (or roller derby, for that matter). Rather, he’s asking everyone to try two wines made from the same grape or a similar blend, one from a more northerly spot or cooler climate than the other, and to compare and contrast their similarities and differences. It seems pretty straightforward at first glance, but the options are practically limitless and the chosen approaches have the potential to get quite in-depth.
Want to know more? Head on over to Rémy’s blog, The Wine Case, and check out the full details. Reports are due on Wednesday, March 18, 2009.
(Image courtesy of RollerDerby-Art.com.)
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