TDF 2010 Stage 6: Montargis to Gueugnon

Today's stage coverage and photos come to us courtesy of Jim Budd, a freelance drinks journalist, regular contributor to both "Decanter" and Hugh Johnson's "Pocket Wine Guides," and author of the aptly titled Loire-centric wine blog, Jim's Loire. Jim splits his time between London and the Touraine. Like me, he's a big cycling fan; you'll find his daily thoughts on Le Tour at Jim's Loire.

The longest stage of this year’s Tour (227.5 km) takes the riders deep into the heart of rural France. The route skirts some of the Central Loire vineyards and the hilly Morvan before ending near the famous Charolais beef country.

Pouilly-sur-Loire marks the halfway point of La Loire. Sign on the bridge over the river.

Officially described as flat this stage will be much more undulating than the previous two stages and includes four 4th category climbs – nothing difficult but less obviously a sprinters’ stage. It may also be a stage where a breakaway manages to stay away as the peloton conserves its energy for the Alpine stages that start on Saturday, especially given the current heat.

The stage starts in Montargis, which is about 70 miles south of Paris. Known in part for the production of saffron but also for its waterways in the centre of the old town. It is sometimes called the Venice of the Gatinais, a region of forests and flat agricultural land.

Unlike last year the 2010 Tour will not traverse any of the Loire’s vineyards apart from a brief and flying glimpse of some of Vouvray’s vineyards as the riders hurtle north to Paris on the TGV (high speed train) after the time trial through the Médoc vineyards. Otherwise Stage 6 is the only one that passes relatively close to any of the Loire’s vineyards. Today’s route runs parallel to the Loire.

Pouilly and La Loire.

Firstly it travels a little to the east of the small appellation of Coteaux du Giennois, whose whites are made from Sauvignon and whose best reds by rights ought to be made from 100% Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, due to an unfathomable and insane doctrine, minor Loire appellations around here have to blend some Gamay with their Pinot Noir. Who's ever heard of a really good wine made from a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir? The appellation takes it name from the town of Gien on the Loire, more famous for its porcelain than the wine.

The route also passes fairly close (about 12 miles to the east) to the Coteaux Charitois, a vin de pays based around the two hamlets of Chasnay and Saint-Lay. This was a quite important vineyard before the arrival of phylloxera just before the First World War. Then it virtually disappeared until being revived some 30 years ago. Serge Dagueneau, the well-known producer in Pouilly, has long had some vines here including Pinot Noir, so he is able to make some red. Alphonse Mellot is now the largest producer here with a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir branded Les Pénitents having bought some 18 hectares here in 2005.

Alphonse Mellot.

Their Chardonnay is a reminder that Sancerre and Pouilly are actually considerably closer to Chablis and the vineyards of the Yonne than they are to those of Touraine. Indeed Pouilly is administratively part of Burgundy. When the race passes through Saint-Fargeau, one of the stages Mark Cavendish won last year, the riders will be just 40 miles west of Chablis.

I have to admit that I don’t know the area that much of today’s route passes through and I suspect that this may well be equally true for many French people. I have briefly visited the Morvan but that must be some 30 years ago It tends to be a forgotten region. Although he wasn’t born here the late French President, François Mitterrand, put the area of the map as he was the Mayor of Château-Chinon for many years. Incidentally there is no connection here with AC Chinon. As far as I know there aren’t any vines in the Morvan as the climate is too harsh.

There's beauty to be found in the little known Brionnais countryside...

Gueugnon, where the stage finishes, is on the River Arroux, a tributary of the Loire, which is around 10 miles away. It is also only some 25 miles from Charolles home of France’s Charolais beef. Unfortunately the riders won’t have time to tarry but the area around Charolles and the associated Brionnais region has much rural charm, is well worth exploring and is little known.

...and fantastic beef.

Those not intending to race up into the Alps on Saturday should enjoy a juicy Charolais steak along with a bottle of 2005 Sancerre Rouge from a top producer such as Alphonse Mellot, the Vacherons, Vincent Pinard or Lucien Crochet. Santé et bon appétit!

Up next: Into the Jura.

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Ampelidae: Growing Ambition in Marigny-Brizay

I first met Frédéric Brochet, majority owner of and winemaker at Ampelidae, sometime in late-2002 or mid-2003. He was on a quick business oriented tour of the Mid-Atlantic States and his schedule allowed for little more than time to exchange pleasantries and for me to ask him a question or two about his winemaking and viticultural practices. My main question – something to the effect of whether he farmed organically or biodynamically – must have stuck in his head, as when I visited his property in February of 2004 he not only recognized me right away (always a nice thing) but quickly brought up the topic of our original discussion….

A view of the estate from the main driveway, February 2004.
I’m getting a little ahead of myself here, though, so let’s back up a bit. Ampelidae is a modestly scaled winery located in Marigny-Brizay, a commune of the Vienne Department located thirty-odd kilometers NNE of Poitiers in the southwestern sector of the greater Loire Valley. It sits in the crossroads between the Massif Central and the Massif Breton, in an area with ancient viticultural history but without a well-known modern viticultural presence to back it up, reflected in the fact that the area’s wines are not recognized with AOC status. The region includes about 800 hectares of vines, three-fourths of which are Co-Op operated. Independent, forward-thinking producers are in the distinct minority.

Frédéric (pictured at right) was born on the property in 1972 and his father, Christian Brochet, first gave him the opportunity to make his own wine in 1990. Perhaps not surprisingly, Frédéric went on to study oenology at university. After a working a stage in Australia in 1992, he returned to pursue a PhD in oenology at the University of Bordeaux, focusing on the cognitive aspects of wine tasting. He immediately made an impression there, conducting a series of rather mischievous tastings targeted at proving just how subjective wine tasting can be.

The estate itself is relatively young, established by Frédéric in 1995 and since expanded around the heart of the property that was originally owned by his father. As with so many other vignerons of the current generation, Frédéric is the first to estate bottle wines from his family’s farm, which includes about 35 hectares of vineyards. Those vineyards – situated on or near battleground sites from 5th, 8th and 14th Century conflicts – span a wide swath across a gently sloping hillside, providing all vines with southern exposure. Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc are planted on the chalky soils near the base of the slope; Chardonnay and Pinot Noir take root in the clay, sandstone and flint base of the mid-slope; and Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon can be found in the acid, sandy soils at the top of the slope.

The Brochets purchase vine stock from reputable estates in Burgundy and Bordeaux and also propagate vines via their own massal selection. Farming is organic; certification has not been sought. In the vineyards, the soil is turned annually between every row, allowing natural mulch and moisture to aerate the topsoil, keeping it loose and healthy. During the growing season, grass, mâche, wild asparagus and other plant life are allowed to grow amongst the vines, helping to prevent erosion and also attracting an array of insects that are competitive to malignant vine pests, thus eliminating any need for insecticides.

Another view of the property, in a warmer time of year.
In addition to farming his own land, Monsieur Brochet also buys in fruit – mostly Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay – from a number of locally contracted growers with whom he has the ability to guide and dictate farming practices. Wines are made on two basic levels. The so-called “Premium” line is branded as “Marigny-Neuf,” a name meant to capture the essence of the winery’s locale in Marigny-Brizay along with Brochet’s drive to breathe new life into the area’s old and largely forgotten viticultural traditions. These are varietal, négociant bottlings, combining estate-grown and purchased fruit; all vinification is done in steel, with an eye toward a direct expression of local varietal character. The estate bottled Ampelidae wines, what Frédéric considers his “Super Premium” collection, are all barrel aged, richer in extract and more modern in their flavor and textural profiles. At the time of our visit, all the wines fell within the appellation of VDQS Haut-Poitou, a designation which Brochet has recently dropped in favor of Vin de Pays de Val de Loire.

Getting back to where we started, remembering my old question regarding organics and biodynamics, Frédéric made it clear that he prefers technology to what he referred to as “the new age.” His position is reflected not only by the adoption of such modern tools as computer modeling – used to predict the risks of mildew relative to the area’s rainfall – but also by his sense of ambition. He clearly wants his wines to be taken seriously and works accordingly in his cellars, striving to craft wines that may eventually fetch prices far above and beyond the current standards of his neighborhood.

While visiting one of the several small wine making and barrel aging facilities scattered around his property, he extracted barrel samples of a wine that encapsulates that ambition. It was a Pinot Noir he called “L’Étoile” from the 2003 vintage, a wine I believe he’s still yet to market. His goal: to produce what he called a “thick-style” Pinot Noir that might sell to the high-end restaurant market for upwards of 100 Euros per bottle. Based on what we tasted, I couldn’t see it. But we could certainly see the hope in his eyes.

At the time of our visit, the estate seemed to be at a crossroads not unlike the one represented by their location halfway between the pacific culture of the Loire and the mercantile nature of Bordeaux, not far to the south. The best wines were the simplest wines, the “Marigny-Neuf” line, pure, fresh, clean, eminently drinkable and very affordable. The identity of the more serious wines was still punctuated by a question mark. That question is one I think will be answered only with time, as M. Brochet’s sense of purpose falls back into step with his connection to his land. I’ve had very little exposure to the “Ampelidae” line since the time of our visit, but the promise that continues to show via the Marigny-Neuf wines suggests that Ampelidae remains a winery worth watching.


If you’re hankering for more detail, here are the tasting notes from our visit.

• 2003 Marigny-Neuf Gamay
  Smoky, peppery, ripe red berry fruit. Slightly aggressive but bottled only three weeks earlier. In need of a little time to settle down.
  
  
• 2003 Marigny-Neuf Pinot Noir
  Bottled only two-weeks earlier but already more centered than the Gamay. Crisp, bright griotte fruit, with delicate tannins and a sweetly herbal nose.
  
  
• 2002 Marigny-Neuf Cabernet
  A blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Meaty and peppery, with plenty of bell pepper going on. Round mouthfeel contrasted by toothy tannins.
  
  
• 2001 Ampelidae “Le K”
  Opposite to the above, this was a blend of 20% Cabernet Franc and 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in barrel. Rich. Aiming at opulence without arriving at sur-maturity. Dark black cherry fruit and a slightly bitter finish.
  
  
• 2002 Ampelidae “P.N. 1328”
  The signature wine of the estate, this is a Pinot Noir named for the address of the old family house. Spicy black fruit and mature aromatic characteristics.
  
  
• 2001 Ampelidae “Le G”
  Barrel aged Gamay. Reductive and aggressively animal on the nose, like sulfured manure.
  
  
• 2003 Marigny-Neuf Rosé
  70% Gamay, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Pinot Noir and 4% Groillot. Very nice wine, with clean fruit and decent backing acidity.
  
  
• 2002 Ampelidae “Le X”
  Unusual wine. Varietal Pinot Noir, barrel aged and finished with 38 grams of residual sugar (RS). Like drinking light strawberry preserves.
  
  
• 2002 Marigny-Neuf Chardonnay
  Smoky, apple-y fruit, with a hint of melon and red berries. Crisp and easy drinking.
  
  
• 2003 Marigny-Neuf Sauvignon Blanc
  Riper and rounder than the 2002 (which I was selling at the time). Clean citrus fruit, with a bit of grass and flintiness on the nose. Good mouthfeel.
  
  
• 2003 Ampelidae “Blanc d’Hiver”
  Sauvignon Blanc aged in old oak casks, made for the first time in 2003. Creamy and sweet-fruited, with peach and melon nuances. Finished at 13% alcohol with 13 grams RS.
  
  
• 2002 Ampelidae “Le C”
  Barrel aged Chardonnay, with lots of smoky oak on the nose. The wood was better integrated on the palate. Flowers on the nose and rich texture in the mouth, finishing ever so slightly off-dry.
  
  
• 2001 Ampelidae “Le S”
  This is the barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc. Quite nice on the palate, showing some oak (which was more neutral on the nose). Well balanced.

We also had the opportunity, if just barely, to sit down with a few of Frédéric’s wines over a very fine lunch at Le Pavillon Bleu in Bonneuil Matours.

• “Armance B” Brut NV
  This is a Vin Mousseux de Qualité, made in the traditional method and named after Frédéric’s grandmother, whose maiden name was Armance. Based primarily on Folle Blanche, rounded out with small proportions of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, it spends 14-15 months on the lees before disgorgement. Best when young. Fresh, creamy and lively.
  
  
• 2003 Marigny-Neuf Gamay “Rouge d’Automne”
  One-third of the fruit for this cuvée sees carbonic maceration; the other two-thirds goes through traditional vinification. Softer and juicier than the “regular” Gamay. Maybe the most enjoyable wine of the day, and pretty tasty with the chef’s “Terrine de Pot au Feu en Ravigote.”
  
  
• 2001 Ampelidae “P.N 1328”
  This improved in the presence of “Filets de Porc Rôti” but was nonetheless marred by alcoholic heat and an oak influence that punched over the wine’s fruit.

(First photograph courtesy of Eric Tuverson. All other images courtesy of Ampelidae.com.)

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More on Typicity: Thierry Puzelat's "Le Telquel"

When the bureaucrats from the INAO come a-knocking at a vigneron’s door to taste through their goods for the year, typicity is one of the main elements subject to their judgment. The problem is, the INAO tasters have often been accused of being in the pocket of the large négociants houses and industrial concerns, whose interests all too often put quantity before quality. Typicity, in that context, can become more about maintaining the status quo, looking at the lowest common denominator, than about focusing on the best traits inherent to the subject in question. Producers who push the envelope, whether through natural farming and winemaking, extremely low yields or highly characterful wines, are those most often are hurt by the INAO’s power to withhold AOC designation. I’ve written about this before, regarding the wines of Vincent Ricard in the Touraine and Jean-Paul Brun in Beaujolais. But the producer who seems to knock heads with the authorities more regularly than his peers is Thierry Puzelat.

Vin de Table Français “Le Telquel,” Thierry Puzelat NV (2007)
$14. 12% alcohol. Nomacorc. Importer: Louis/Dressner, New York, NY.


Look as hard as you’d like on the label of Thierry Puzelat’s “Le Telquel” and you won’t find a vintage date, at least not an obvious one. That, along with its lowly Vin de Table designation, is a sure sign, especially in a still wine, that the producer has run afoul of the expectations of France’s (in)famous INAO tasting panel. As do most producers, Thierry gets around the regulation that doesn’t allow vintage dating for Vins de Table by including a vintage reference in the bottle’s lot number. “Lvtr07” appears in tiny print on the label’s sidebar; while I won’t hazard a guess at the meaning of “vtr,” “L…07” certainly represents Lot 2007. As for weathering the demotion from AOC to VdT status, Puzelat has built a strong enough following that his wines will still sell, usually at the same price as if they held AOC status. Not all other producers are so lucky.

“Le Telquel” is varietal Gamay, sourced by Puzelat from high quality farms and fermented according to his inimitably natural standards. The funny thing is, there’s no mistaking it for anything other than Gamay. It’s bursting with the pure red cherry and raspberry fruit that’s typical to the variety. What it isn’t – and here’s where that lowest common denominator standard seems to have been applied – is grapey and one-dimensional, as are far too many basic Loire Gamay. The wine should qualify as AOC Touraine but has been declassified to Vin de Table, presumably because of its intensity of flavor and aroma.

A sauvage aromatic character, somewhat akin to the sweet scents of a well-trodden pasture, replaces simple grapiness. There’s a depth that extends beyond bright red fruit into a more brooding backbone of black fruits and spice. Clove and five spice both come to mind. Up front, the chalkiness I often associate with young Beaujolais is there; however, on the finish, there’s a hint of tingly minerality that roots the wine in the Loire. Best served slightly chilled, this is soft enough to be enjoyed alone for its wonderful fruit and aroma but textured enough to sit well at the table. And at less than $15/bottle, it’s an excellent value, AOC or no AOC.

Image of Thierry Puzelat courtesy of Louis/Dressner Selections.

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Germany and Loire Wine Classes at Tria Fermentation School

It’s that time of the month again. The gang at Tria Fermentation School have just announced their May schedule of courses. In addition to plenty of other wine, beer and cheese related seminars, I’ll be in the house on two separate occasions, leading courses on the wines of Germany and the Loire.

White wine haters beware! In the wines of Germany, scheduled for Tuesday, May 6, 2008, we’ll cover the basic keys to building a greater understanding of German wines. Along the way, we might just taste a red but the class will overwhelmingly focus on the great whites of Germany. Selections will include wines from some of the top producers of their respective regions: Jochen Ratzenberger in the Mittelrhein, Werner Schönleber in the Nahe, Klaus-Peter Keller in the Rheinhessen and Andreas Laible in Baden, among others.

The view from Bacharach, near Weingut Ratzenberger, in the Mittelrhein.
Later in the month, on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 to be exact, I’ll be leading a trip down the Loire, one of France’s most diverse wine growing regions. The line-up of wines has yet to be finalized for this session but rest assured that it will include some of the classics, like Sancerre, Chinon and Vouvray, along with some lesser known hidden gems.

The town of Chinon, as seen from the banks of the Vienne River.

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A Few Under $20 Gems from the Loire

The occasional Riesling or Burgundy aside, I’ve been on a huge Loire kick of late. Starting just prior to the last episode of WBW that focused on French Cabernet Franc, running straight through my rather prolix three part story of a visit to Chinon, and continuing right into dinner last night, the wines of the Loire have been keeping me coming back for more. I’m sure the beauty of the region and the experiences recalled from my last trip there have something to do with it. It also doesn’t hurt that the Loire seems to be the hottest bed of innovative and natural wine growers in France. Many Loire wines tend toward naturally low alcohol levels. And it remains one of the few regions where some seriously high quality, age worthy wines can still be found for under $20 a bottle. Above and beyond all of that, I think it’s the incredible diversity and the vibrant, food friendly nature of the Loire’s best wines that really keep me captivated.


Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie "Le Fief du Breil," Domaine de la Louvetrie (Jo Landron) 2004
Jo Landron is one of the champs of the natural wine movement in the Pays Nantais, the region at the mouth of the Loire, near the Atlantic seaboard and synonymous with the wines of Muscadet. His 2004 “Le Fief du Breil” is showing just great right now. Its intense, almost saline mineral extract, combined with a marrowy, leesy influence in the mouth made me think of a soft pretzel taken straight from the oven and thrown onto a platter of oyster shells. This is classically crisp and fresh, yet it’s no lightweight. Bracing acidity combines with the wine’s physiological density to provide some serious palate impact. This has a long life ahead of it.

Here’s a side note of potential interest. If you’re keen to find wines made from organic fruit and feel more secure with produce that is certified organic (as opposed to being farmed organically but without certification), then take a look at the small print in the photo of Landron’s label. “Vin Issu de Raisins de l'Agriculture Biologique, Certifié par ECOCERT” means literally “wine issued from organically grown grapes, certified by ECOCERT.” ECOCERT is one of France’s primary organic certification bodies. $14. 12% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY.

Chinon, Domaine Bernard Baudry 2005
Speaking of modestly priced wines worthy of a spot in your wine closet, the basic 2005 Chinon from Bernard Baudry is a great candidate for mid-term cellaring; that said, it’s hard to pass up enjoying it now. It reminds me an awful lot of the Chinon “Les Graves” of Fabrice Gasnier. That’s a good thing, not just because Gasnier’s basic cuvée is among my long-standing everyday favorites, but also because the similarity speaks to the clear, true expression of terroir in both producers’ wines. Baudry and Gasnier are both located in Cravant Les Coteaux, one of Chinon’s sub-regions located just to the east of the city and just north of the banks of the Vienne. Here again, it’s worth studying the information on Baudry’s label:


Cabernet Franc
Graviers 80% et Argiles de Coteaux 20%
Sols travaillés sans utilisation de désherbants et d'engrais chimiques.
Vendange manuelle
The geological makeup, 80% gravel and 20% argile/clay soils, is pretty much identical to that of the vineyards from which Gasnier’s “Les Graves” is produced. Baudry’s wine is a touch more muscular but both share leafy aromas, hints of red cassis and cherry fruit, crackly acidity and lots of texture. Not big, bold tannins. Just lots of fine grain that gives a really invigorating mouth feel. These wines demand food with their texture. And they blossom in the presence of food, ranging anywhere from salmon to pork and poultry, and from sausages to a local goat’s milk cheese like St. Maure de Touraine. $17. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY.


Touraine "Cuvée Côt," Clos Roche Blanche 2005
My first encounter with the “Cuvée Côt” from Clos Roche Blanche was at François and Manuela Chidaine’s wine shop, La Cave Insolite, during a visit there in early 2004. I brought a bottle home with me, the 2002 I think, and ended up not opening it for quite a while. When I finally did, it made my top-ten list for the year. Just delicious, characterful wine. I’m not sure the 2005 is quite as captivating, though it may get there with time. Either way, it’s tasty as can be right now. Classic Loire Côt (Malbec) aromas of hickory smoked bacon, huckleberries and fresh horse poop. Like with the Chinons above, there’s a nice spine of zesty acidity. The mouth feel is rounder, with broader, rustic tannic impact. This is the bottle I enjoyed with dinner last night, a simple plate of pasta with a tomato and mushroom sauce. Not culturally synchronized, I know, but actually not a bad match. It would be even better with those same mushrooms along with some caramelized onions served over a roast loin of pork. $17. 12% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY.

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François Chidaine: Vigneron à Montlouis et Vouvray, Part Two

Capping off a day that started with a visit with Philippe Poniatowski at the Clos Baudoin, proceeded to the Montlouis estate of François Chidaine and continued with a stop at the Chidaine family’s wine shop, my group of weary travelers and I came full circle. With François and his cousin Nicolas Martin, we headed back across the river, back to Poniatowski’s property, to taste Chidaine's 2003 Vouvrays from barrel.

The Clos Baudoin vineyard.

François had been hired by Poniatowski, as of the 2002 vintage, under a five year contract to handle both the farming and wine making practices at the estate. It had turned out to be a great decision as, after only two vintages, Chidaine, with the help of Nicolas, was already clearly bringing the wines to a new level of style, cleanliness, vibrancy and expression.

During those five years, François and Poniatowski would take a 50/50 share of the wines, each with the right to market them under their own respective marques but according to Chidaine’s newly implemented array of cuvée names. Chidaine’s contract included an option to buy the estate at the end of his five-year term. However, there was nothing to preclude Poniatowski, who was clearly in some measure of economic distress after weathering a difficult stretch of poor management in his vineyards and cellar, from entertaining other buyers in the interim. Chidaine’s no-nonsense stoicism and ambition combined with the Prince’s pride and urgency had made for an awkward marriage of businesses and personalities.

During our morning visit, Poniatowski had taken us for a walk through the Clos Baudoin vineyard and a tour of his bottle caves before settling down to the tasting table in the parlor of his old estate home. We’d passed the “winery” part of the cave with barely a glance. Little discussion of winemaking practices occurred. And our tentative questions about his partnership with Chidaine were essentially shrugged off or circumvented.

Later that day, Chidaine too was reticent to discuss any aspect of his relationship with Poniatowski (who did not join us for the tasting). Otherwise though, it would turn out to be a very different experience from our morning visit in the same space. François made it clear that his reasons for interloping in Vouvray – he is the first native Montlouis producer to also make estate bottled wines on the other side of the river – were motivated not solely by commercial desires but also by his farming and wine making passions. He does believe that the Clos Baudoin is indeed a very special terroir. He also confirmed our impressions that the Clos had been allowed to fall into a rather sad state after several years of less than fastidious farming. Already in the process of converting the vineyards to biodynamic principles, he felt strongly that the soil and vines would slowly but surely begin to return to their full potential.

A detail of a 1946 map of the Vouvray vineyards, courtesy of Don Rice, from: LARMAT, Louis, "Atlas de la France vinicole. Les vins des coteaux de la Loire. Touraine et centre [Tome 5]." Paris: Louis Larmat, 1946, 450x325, 38pp.

With François, we skipped the estate’s bottle caves and headed straight into the barrel room where we proceeded, much as we had at his estate in Montlouis, with a discussion of the notoriously hot and dry growing conditions during 2003. Chidaine’s second vintage in Vouvray had been challenging. Yields at the estate were approximately 30% lower than normal, averaging 23 hectoliters per hectare as compared to 30 in 2002. On the upside though, yields were not nearly as drastically reduced as in Montlouis, where early-season frost had been a problem. As at his own Domaine in Montlouis, François elected to vinify every plot separately, so as to assess each lot’s special characteristics before blending into the final cuvée, a particularly prudent practice in a difficult year.

Barrel tasting:

As we’d experienced earlier, tasting from barrel with François is a practice in precision, bordering on the clinical. My notes are regrettably sparse as a result.

• 2003 Haut Lieu
  Harvested at 13.8% potential alcohol and still fermenting, this barrel was destined to become part of “Les Argiles.”
  
  
• 2003 Chatrie and Cabane
  Chatrie and Cabane are both lieu-dits located on the plateau above the Clos Baudoin. Also destined for “Les Argiles,” these plots would often have been added to the “Clos de l’Avenir” cuvée in the Poniatowski years. Lively, redolent of peach nectar.
  
  
• 2003 Chatrie (Lot 2)
  Drier, more mineral and higher acid than the Chatrie/Cabane blended barrel. Also destined for “Les Argiles” and likely to be finished with four to five grams of residual sugar.
  
  
• 2003 Plante Clos Baudoin
  From two-thirds old vines (45 years) and one-third young vines (20 years), François’ estimation is that this is destined to be a good but not great wine, most likely to be almost completely dry when finished.
  
  
• 2003 Clos Baudoin Vieilles Vignes
  From old vines only, this was still fermenting but already finer and more concentrated than the mixed-age barrel.
  
  
• 2003 Pichot
  This was targeted for “Le Bouchet.” This normally demi-sec cuvée would most likely be fully moelleux in 2003 as evidenced by this plot, harvested at 16.5% potential and finished to 40-45 grams RS.
  
  
• 2003 Le Bouchet
  From 70-80 year old vines in the lieu-dit of Le Bouchet itself, located across the road and down the hill from the estate. Richer and more complex than the Pichot, this showed fresh herbs, flowers and intense physiological concentration.
  
  
• 2003 L’Homme and Chatrie Vieilles Vignes
  Also for “Le Bouchet.” Muscular and surprisingly well balanced.
  
  
• 2003 Tri du 13 Octobre
  A late harvest for the hot season of 2003, this barrel would become part of the year’s Vouvray Moelleux. Low acid and intensely concentrated.

Postscript:

In 2007, his five-year contract finished and several business hurdles overcome, François finalized the purchase of Poniatowski’s property. Chidaine’s 2005 Vouvrays, now on the market, show intense concentration and potential longevity. As in Montlouis, his wines must already be considered among the top tier.

Related posts:

• The Last Vouvrays of Philippe Poniatowski
  
• François Chidaine: Vigneron à Montlouis et Vouvray, Part One
  
• La Cave Insolite

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Wine Shopping: La Cave Insolite

At first glance, La Cave Insolite seems just another of the quiet, slightly drab storefronts that face the river on the Quai Albert Baillet in Montlouis-sur-Loire. The cavistes at this unassuming shop, though, just happen to be Francois and Manuela Chidaine. When Francois and his cousin, Nicolas Martin, suggested that our group stop at the shop en route from Chidaine’s winery in Montlouis to the Clos Baudoin in Vouvray (back in February 2004), we could hardly refuse. Once inside, as Manuela poured us a glass of the Chidaine’s 2001 Montlouis Brut Non-Dosé, my first thought was, “This is my kind of wine store.” It wasn’t just the bubbly, which was lean, bone dry, loaded with delicate fruit and floral aromas, and perfectly palate cleansing. It was also the selection, the feel of the shop and its overall presentation.


La Cave Insolite offers a small, focused array of wines, all from the Loire Valley and all carefully selected and sincerely backed by the Chidaine family. In addition to wines from recognized stars like Didier Dagueneau, quietly established estates such as Clos Roche Blanche, and up-and-comers such as the young Vincent Ricard, the shop features the Normandy Cidres and Calvados of Eric Bordelet (an exception to the all-Loire rule). Add on a variety of locally produced pâtés and rillettes, a small section of stemware and accessories, and the expert advice of the family staff and you have a shop which could be easily absorbed in one visit yet would be rewarding as a regular destination. Much to my chagrin, La Cave Insolite is about 3,650 miles too far from home to be included among my regular wine shopping destinations. If you’re planning a trip through the Touraine though, it’s more than worth the detour into the sleepy hamlet of Montlouis.

La Cave Insolite
30 quai Albert Baillet
37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Tél: 02 47 45 19 14
All images courtesy of www.cave-insolite-chidaine.com

Related posts:

• The Last Vouvrays of Philippe Poniatowski
  
• François Chidaine: Vigneron à Montlouis et Vouvray, Part One

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François Chidaine: Vigneron à Montlouis et Vouvray, Part One

Monday, February 23, 2004. After an unusual morning spent in the caves and tasting rooms of Philippe Poniatowski in Vouvray, followed by a modest lunch at a bistro on the edge of town, it was off to the other side of the river. Our afternoon appointment was at the Montlouis domaine of François Chidaine, a serious, stoic and talented wine grower – and the ascending star of both Montlouis-sur-Loire and Vouvray.

From the driveway where we initially met Chidaine, on a tiny road leading up and away from the river, his winery looked like little more than a garage excavated into the hillside. Before venturing in, we took to the cars for a drive up the hill to the plateau above.

François Chidaine’s property consists of approximately 20 hectares of vines, spread along a two kilometer periphery around the village of Montlouis, all set on the hillside and plateau which dominate the valley. He farms his land with a close eye to nature. At the time of our visit, all but two hectares of his vines were being farmed biodynamically. Chidaine, however, insists on making no mention of organics or biodynamics on his bottles. In fact, he’s loath to talk much about biodynamie at all. He farms naturally because he feels it results in a purer expression of the vine and of his terroir. Attracting the organically inclined shopper is not a concern. Customers and importers line up, via a waiting list, to buy his wines, about 50% of which are broadly exported with the other 50% going to the French market.

Given that it was snowing intermittently during our visit and that there was a surprising amount of standing water in the vineyards, François opted not to take us through each and every one of his eight distinct plots. Instead, most of our outdoor time was spent in Le Clos Volgets, an essentially flat climat of argilo-silex soil situated atop the plateau. His vines are trained in the double Guyot method and kept low to the ground to capture reflective heat from the soil below. During the winter months, he keeps a soil cover of vegetation between the rows to protect against run-off, a natural tendency of the erosive soils in Montlouis and one of the primary farming differences relative to neighboring Vouvray. Two weeks after our visit, the soils would be turned to allow the earth to breathe in anticipation of the onset of spring. The fruit from the 45 year-old vines in Volgets goes mostly to his demi-sec, multi-vineyard cuvée Les Tuffeaux.

On the way back to our vehicles, François pointed out both Clos Habert and Clos de Breuil, from which he produces vineyard-designated bottlings, respectively demi-sec and sec in style. Taking a circuitous route across the plateau en route to the winery, he also indicated a new vineyard of four hectares that he had recently purchased and replanted. Atypically rich in clay and dense of soil, this hard-to-farm site was Les Bournais, the source of the eponymous wine first produced by Chidaine from the fruit grown in 2004.

Back at the winery, where we were joined by François’ cousin Nicolas, we found the scene behind the aforementioned garage doors perfectly befitting of Chidaine’s personality – plain stone walls, no nonsense, nothing extra, just barrels and the most basic tools of the trade. All wines are vinified in cask, primarily of 600 liters, with 10% of production fermented and aged in 300 liter barrels. Reflective of his approach to his terroir, fruit from every distinct parcel is vinified separately; blends are assembled in preparation for bottling. Fermentations are very slow, running completely under the steam of natural yeasts. Filtration is used minimally yet rigorously, only between barrel and bottle and only when necessary.

As the barrel segment of our tasting would consist solely of wines from 2003, François prepped us with a bit of info on the local effects of the notoriously hot, dry vintage. Due to the difficult growing conditions, production for the year was only about 40% of the estate’s normal average yields of 35 hl/ha. Harvest, which normally begins in mid-October and continues into November, began in late September and was completed on October 14. The combination of low acidity and high ripeness led to wines that are very concentrated but lacking in maturity of structure. At this point, his plan was to finish all of the wines in the 12 to 12.5% alcohol range, so even the usually dry wines would have some pretty measurable residual sugar. The ripeness levels of the vintage allowed for the production of Sélection de Grains Nobles (SGN) for the first time since 1997 and 1999. His advice for the vintage: drink the 2003s while the 2002s rest in your cellar.

Tasting wines from barrel like this – still fermenting and unassembled – is always an exercise more technical than satisfying. Nonetheless, it can be enlightening as to a producer’s thought processes, vinification techniques and overall approach. It’s also a wonder, down the road, to see how the parts become a more complete whole. The precision of Chidaine’s technique and presentation was matched, more entertainingly, by Nicolas’ spitting abilities. I’m not sure I’ve seen anyone produce a thinner, more precise stream, always on target even when he was standing five feet away from the small spittoon we all shared.

Tasting from barrel:

• 2003 Clos du Breuil
  The Clos du Breuil – the name refers to the underground water supply beneath the vineyard – is one of the plots from which Chidaine makes a vineyard specific cru each year. From fruit with 14.2% potential alcohol, this would not finish fermentation for another month. Typical of a wine at this stage, aromas were of yeast, bananas and tropical fruit. Low acid, particularly for this normally pretty brisk cuvée. 4 grams residual sugar.
  
  
• 2003 Clos Habert
  Another of the single vineyard designates, Clos Habert is a plot of 60 year-old vines which gave fruit with 15.5% potential alcohol in 2003. Yields from the three hectare vineyard were only 24 hectoliters (8 hl/ha). The vineyard saw an early bud set, followed by frost then long, dry heat. Rich, sweet, opulent fruit. 30 grams residual sugar, 3 grams acidity.
  
  
• 2003 Clos Volgets
  From the 45 year-old vines in the vineyard we’d visited a short while earlier. It’s fair to say that this hovered stylistically between the Breuil and Habert, with brighter acidity but less RS than in the Habert.
  
  
• 2003 Les Epirées
  Unlinke in Habert, there was no early season frost damage in Epirées, with yields therefore coming in somewhat closer to normal at 24 hl/ha. The fruit from this site normally goes into the cuvées Les Choisilles and Les Tuffeaux. However, as this year’s wine – currently stopped yet not complete in its fermentation – would finish at around 100 grams residual sugar, it was destined for Chidaine’s Montlouis Moelleux.
  
  
• 2003 Le Lys
  This is Chidaine’s special SGN cuvée, produced only in exceptional (or unusual) years. He usually seeks potential alcohol in the 18-20% range for this wine; the 2003 reached 22% and will finish at around 150 grams of residual sugar, the product of 100% botrytis affected fruit. Rich, tropical fruit with intense concentration and length.

The view from outside Chidaine's barrel storage garage, looking down the road toward the Loire (February 2004).
Tasting from bottle:

• 2001 Montlouis “Les Choisilles”
  2001 was an average vintage with normal yields, giving a wine of slightly lower acidity than in 2002. Nonetheless, there was no shortage of acidity or of balance. Very dry and mineral, with good clarity of fruit and a long finish.
  
  
• 2002 Vouvray “Les Argiles”
  As I’d mentioned in my earlier post about our morning visit with Prince Poniatowski, Chidaine had been farming the land and making the wines at Poniatowski’s estate in Vouvray since 2002. This was his first vintage, therefore, of “Les Argiles,” a cuvée produced primarily from vineyards across the road from Poniatowski’s winery that formerly had gone to Poniatowski’s Vouvray “Clos de l’Avenir.” This showed riper fruit yet was more closed than the 2001 “Les Choisilles,” prompting François to mention that he feels Vouvray gives more masculine wines relative to the more feminine traits of Montlouis.
  
  
• 2002 Montlouis “Les Choisilles”
  Floral, very mineral and extremely tight, with mouth-watering acidity.
  
  
• 2002 Vouvray “Clos Baudoin”
  This needed some oxygen to open up and show its stuff. Chidaine, in fact, recommended decanting the wine and felt that it would develop very nicely in bottle. In spite of finding Poniatowski’s vineyards in a near state of disaster when he arrived in 2002, the breed of the wine showed, with sweet earth and firm, tight structure.
  
  
• 2002 Montlouis “Clos Habert”
  To give a comparative sense of the differences between 2002 and 2003, François told us that the 2002 Habert, usually Chidaine’s richest normal cuvée, was 4 grams drier than the 2003 “Les Tuffeaux,” which is normally the less rich wine. Solid structure and fine acid balance.
  
  
• 2003 Montlouis “Les Tuffeaux”
  Though this actually had higher acidity than the Clos Habert, it felt fatter on the palate due to less integrated sugars. Though less complex than the Habert, it was very ripe and pleasing with pronounced flavors of Asian pear.
  
  
• 1998 Montlouis “Les Tuffeaux”
  François’ first vintage at the head of his estate was 1989. He pronounced the wine of ten years later, the 1998 Tuffeaux, to be classic in his style and to be just opening up. Regrettably, both bottles he opened were corked, the first profoundly.
  
  
• 1997 Montlouis “Les Tuffeaux”
  Rich color. Heady aromas of marmalade and honeycomb, along with some botrytis notes. Spicy on the palate, with fairly low acidity.
  
  
• 2000 Montlouis “Clos Habert”
  Unusual shellfish-like aromas. 2000 was a hard vintage, with lots of rain just before harvest. A faint hint of rot on the palate.
  
  
• 2002 Vouvray “Le Bouchet”
  From a plot with NW exposure, located across the hilltop from the Clos Baudoin. Forward, floral and ever so slightly honeyed, with a hint of wood making itself known.
  
  
• 2002 Vouvray “Moelleux”
  This is the only cuvée produced in 100% new barrel. 50 grams residual sugar. Both the wood and the sugar were showing through; closed and slightly disjointed. Much richer than I remembered from previous bottles tasted in the US.
  
  
• 2002 Montlouis “Moelleux”
  This showed much more exotic fruit than did the Vouvray, with Asian pear, mango, bananas and citrus confit all leaping from the glass. 60 grams residual sugar.
  
  
• 1996 Montlouis “Moelleux”
  Like in 2002, this had great richness along with fine acid balance. This is wine to hold. Tea leaves, savory herbs and lanolin. This is a great expression of Montlouis terroir, with intense silex minerality, even a hint of petrol. Chidaine feels 1996 may have been an even better vintage than 1989.
  
  
• 1990 Montlouis “Sélection de Grains Nobles”
  A low acid year, with good yields and high physiological maturity. Again, seashells on the nose. Still very young, somewhat closed and surprisingly delicate given its richness (100 grams residual sugar).

Tasting complete, it was time to move on. The cousins Chidaine had further plans for us though. Part two of this posting will take us into Montlouis proper for a visit at the Chidaine’s wine shop then back across the river to Vouvray to taste the ‘03s from barrel at the Clos Baudoin. Stay tuned.

Related posts:

• The Last Vouvrays of Philippe Poniatowski
  
• La Cave Insolite

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The Last Vouvrays of Philippe Poniatowski

Approaching the Vouvray estate of Prince Philippe Poniatowski by car – as our entourage did in February 2004 – it would be easy to pass it by unnoticed. Set in a quiet, semi-residential and semi-industrial street not far from the sleepy center of town, nothing about its initial appearance screams of wine greatness. Even passing by the crowning glory of the estate, the single vineyard Clos Baudoin, one could be forgiven for not noticing anything particularly special.

The Clos Baudoin vineyard and its original walls date back to 1707.
But standing in the caves of the winery, excavated into the hillside directly below the Clos and behind the estate house, the heart of one of the hidden jewels of Vouvray is fully exposed. The cave’s ceiling, high overhead, lies below 15 meters of the rock, clay and limestone which make up the soil base of the Clos Baudoin. The vines have dug so deep in search of nourishment that the tips of their probing roots can be seen dangling in mid-air. The caves serve not only as the final hunting ground for the vines above but also as the winery and bottle storage facilities for the estate. If ever a case could be made for extending the definition of “terroir” to include a winery, here’s the evidence. Every bottle stored in these caves bears a trace, on the air-end of the cork, of the cellar shmuts that coats the dark, moist walls. And every wine from 2001 back bears an aromatic suggestion that is hauntingly evocative of this subterranean home.

The estate house: cellars lurk through the door to the left, the Clos Baudoin lies above.

Philippe is the third – and would be the last – generation of the Poniatowski clan, descendents of the last Polish royal family, to run the estate. The original six acres of the property were acquired by Philippe’s grandfather in 1918. The story of that acquisition has been recounted many times yet always bears repetition. Having discovered the wines of the Clos Baudoin at his favorite lunch spot, Au Petit Riche in Paris, Philippe’s grandfather, a successful industrialist, decided to buy the property when he learned it was in danger of being uprooted, somewhat ironically, to make way for industrial expansion. As is typical in the small-farm wine business, the Poniatowski family fortune has been shrinking ever since. Philippe assumed ownership of the entire property in 1970, buying out his brothers’ shares to become the sole proprietor.

Since taking the helm, Philippe produced two flagship wines each year. The cuvée called “Aigle Blanc,” named for the white eagle which is part of the Polish royal family’s insignia, represents a blend of fruit from multiple vineyard sites, including Poniatowski’s portions of Le Mont and Le Haut Lieu. The flagship of the estate was always the “Clos Baudoin,” a single vineyard, monopole bottling from arguably one of the best sites in Vouvray. In the best vintages for sweet wines, it was not unusual for multiple cuvées or selections of each to find their way to market with slightly different labels and at different times and price points. He first began exporting wines to the US in 1982. Later, Poniatowski purchased two adjacent vineyards in 1988, christening the wine produced from them “Clos de l’Avenir” (vineyard of the future) when the wall separating the two plots collapsed, creating a larger “new” site, shortly after his assumption of ownership. Finally, limited quantities were produced of another single vineyard bottling from the one-acre “Clos des Patys,” sold exclusively to Restaurant Jean Bardet in Tours.

Prince Philippe, a true gentleman estate owner, was never a farmer or a winemaker. Instead, he chose to hire oenologists and viticulturalists while running the business aspects of the property himself. Through the 1996 vintage, M. Poniatowski had managed his hiring decisions well, bringing in talented staff who turned out some of the most memorable wines ever to have passed my lips: a searingly bone dry, mineral laden 1984 “Aigle Blanc;” delicate, nuanced demi-sec cuvées such as the 1996 “Aigle Blanc” and the stonier 1995 “Clos de l’Avenir;” and stunning, potentially ageless, constantly evolving moelleux wines from the great back-to-back years of 1989 and 1990, whether the single vineyard “Clos Baudoin” cuvée or the theoretically less illustrious “Aigle Blanc” bottlings.

A new estate manager brought in as of the 1997 season, though, turned out to be a bad hire. The wines produced between 1997 and 2001 would turn out to be inconsistent in quality, not living up to the potential of the property. Realizing his errors and with an eye to selling the estate, Monsieur Poniatowski hired the young, talented François Chidaine – vigneron at his own estate on “the other side of the river” in Montlouis – to take over all wine making and farming responsibilities. Chidaine would be charged with the challenge of bringing the vineyards and, of course, the wines back to their potential.

Testament to the special qualities of the Clos Baudoin's situation, flowers bloom in early February.

Complicating matters, it turned out that while farming and wine making had slacked during the late 1990s, the Prince had also not been keeping up with his sales and marketing duties. His efforts to sell the estate were being stymied by the inclusion in the overall package of a huge library of back-vintage wines. Our tasting with Philippe would turn out to be almost as depressing as it was educational, as he introduced each wine not with information about the vintage or stylistic characteristics but rather with the number of bottles remaining in his caves. He clearly approached our time at the tasting table, much more so than during our more typical visits, as a nitty-gritty opportunity to sell us on some of those wines.

Essentially retired, and at least in his eighties, the Prince, though still stoically attached to the property and its wines, was clearly looking for a viable exit strategy.

Tasting Desperation:

• Vouvray “Aigle Blanc” 1995 (Lot 1)
  6900 bottles still available in Poniatowski’s cellars. 9 grams residual sugar; 6 grams acidity. Aromas of honey and spring flowers followed by very mineral, flinty palate. A tad oxidative.
  
  
• Vouvray “Aigle Blanc” 1995 (Lot 2)
  3200 bottles. Less rich than Lot 1, with a more limestone driven nose. Much fresher fruit and livelier on the palate.
  
  
• Vouvray “Aigle Blanc” 1995 (Lot 5)
  6000 bottles. Quite similar to Lot 1 but slightly earthier. The driest of the three.
  
  
• Vouvray “Clos des Patys” 1995 (Lot 1)
  3000 bottles; could be commercialized as “Aigle Blanc.” Ripe, fresh and elegant fruit. Creamy texture and tooth tingling acidity. The best of the ‘95s.
  
  
• Vouvray “Clos de l’Avenir” 1998 (Lot 1)
  The 1998 shows woodiness more than any other Poniatowski wine I’ve ever tasted. Funky, with heady citrus oil tones on the palate.
  
  
• Vouvray “Aigle Blanc” 2001 (Lot 1)
  4000 bottles. Soft, very forward fruit, with lemon oil and acacia blossoms on the finish. Very friendly; would make a good aperitif.
  
  
• Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” 2001 (Lot 1)
  5000 bottles. Dry. Round texture with loads of acidity. More mineral and less fruit driven than the 2001 Aigle Blanc. Short finish. Sadly, not up to the standards of the vineyard.
  
  
• Vouvray “Aigle Blanc” 1997 (Lot 1)
  48 grams residual sugar. Rich, low-acid and pretty tasty, with a hint of mintiness on the finish.
  
  
• Vouvray “Aigle Blanc” 1997 (Lot 2)
  8000 bottles. 42 grams residual sugar. More intensely aromatic than Lot 1, with earthy tones and oily fruit though not as mineral as Poniatowski’s wines can be. The better by a hair of the two 1997 lots.

Tasting History:

• Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” 1989
  68 grams residual sugar; 6 grams acidity. An effusive nose of honey and wildflowers, with the presence of pure, clean botrytis (which affected 30-50% of the fruit). Intense citrus oil, fat texture, great length.
  
  
• Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” 1990
  79 grams residual sugar; 5.5 grams acidity. Sweet nose of mango and peach nectar. Opulent but not as nervy as the 1989.
  
  A broader view of the Clos Baudoin (February 2004).
  
• Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” 1964
  This bottle pre-dated Philippe’s stewardship of the family estate. A rich golden hue, still bright and glowing, showed in the glass. Mushrooms and leaves on the nose followed by astounding freshness on the palate. Great acidity. Complex and even a bit closed, with rich apple fruit lingering on the finish.
  
  
• Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” 1945
  When we saw Philippe reach for the 1945 bin in the cellar, we tried not to let our excitement show. When we realized he’d selected a Sec cuvée, we also did our best to mask our disappointment. 1945 was a great vintage for dry Vouvray but also produced some top sweet wines, which would be much more likely to have successfully weathered the last sixty years. Amber, almost Cognac-like appearance in the glass. Madeirized, with apple cider vinegar and nougat tones on the nose. Showing more like an Amontillado Sherry on the palate. Not even a suggestion of fruit remained, yet the wine was still interesting from an academic perspective.

Tasting completed and goodbyes said, I couldn’t help feeling that a wonderful history and the potential for continuing greatness, accompanied by a contrasting sense of despair and decay, had seemed to imbue nearly every aspect of our appointment. That bottle of 1945 Clos Baudoin, still clinging to a thread of its former glory although almost entirely faded, was strangely symbolic of the aura of our visit on that cold February morning.

Postscript:

The Prince finally reached an agreement of sale for the property in 2007, handing over ownership to François Chidaine. The wines have already undergone a facelift and made a drastic turnaround since Chidaine’s first year as winemaker in 2002. It will be interesting to track the future of the wines and the estate under his stewardship. In the meanwhile, another look, presumably the last, can now be had at some of the greater of those wines we’d seen aging in the Prince’s cellars. Bottlings of Aigle Blanc and Clos Baudoin from both 1989 and 1990 have recently reappeared on the US market, giving us all one more chance to taste a little of the past.

Related posts:

• François Chidaine: Vigneron à Montlouis et Vouvray, Part One
  
• La Cave Insolite

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Cour Cheverny "Domaine de la Désoucherie," Christian Tessier & Fils 2004

Domaine de la Désoucherie, the estate of Christian Tessier and his son Fabien, sits at one of the highest points in the terrain overlooking the commune of Cour-Cheverny, just west of Blois, in one of the coolest reaches of France’s Loire Valley. In the heart of château country, the estate sits within easy reach of the castles at Chambord, Cheverny, Blois and Beauregard. Though instituted as an AOC only in 1993, Cour-Cheverny can trace its roots back to the early 16th Century, when Francois I brought vine clippings from Burgundy to be planted on the grounds of his castle, Romorantin, designed for him by Leonardo da Vinci. Over the centuries, this vine’s identity became essentially one with the land surrounding Francois’ château; today, the vine is known as Romorantin, its origins in Burgundy all but forgotten.

Decidedly one of the more obscure of France’s wine regions, and produced from one of its least known grape varieties, Cour-Cheverny comprises just under 400 hectares of vineyard area confined to four communes surrounding the eponymous town. Tessier père et fils farm 25 of those hectares, planted on a soil base of silica, clay and flint. They produce wines within all three of the regional AOC’s: Cour-Cheverny, white wine made purely from Romorantin; Cheverny Blanc, blended white from Chardonnay and Sauvignon; and Cheverny Rouge, a red blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. Typical to this cool climate viticultural zone, they also produce sparkling wine under the broad, regional AOC of Crémant de Loire.

Romorantin is a difficult vine to cultivate and a challenging wine to produce. It does not make for a happy blending partner. And its fruit, slow to ripen, must remain on the vine for up to a month after its local counterparts, making it highly susceptible to damage by rot and fall rainstorms. Perhaps then it should come as no surprise that Cour-Cheverny is essentially the only region in the world where Romorantin is cultivated in any meaningful quantity. Wine doesn’t get much more locally specific than this.

Cour-Cheverny “Domaine de la Désoucherie,” Christian Tessier & Fils 2004
A limpid golden green in the glass, Tessier’s Cour-Cheverny is evocative of fresh hay and acacia blossoms on the nose. Those aromas carry through to a palate of bitter lemon and delicate minerality, medium acidity and broad, fresh texture. With time in the glass, a hint of honey and toasted hazelnuts emerges, finishing with a subtle suggestion of orange marmalade. The wine screams Loire Valley in its cool, crisp, mineral tones. No one could be faulted for mistaking the wine for a less honeyed version of Chenin or even for a less citrus example of Sauvignon. Its personality, though, asserts itself in a way that is simply and proudly different.

The wine paired admirably with roast chicken with pan roasted golden beets and yukon gold potatoes; it threw sparks in particular when sipped after the beets. Shellfish and medium-aged goat cheese should also make for lovely culinary partners.

$16. 12% alcohol. Natural cork closure. US importer currently unknown.

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Wine Course: Loire Valley Overview

Registration is now open for my upcoming course at Tria Fermentation School and the seats are going fast. On Tuesday, May 15, I’ll be walking a group of two dozen through an introduction to some of the fascinating wines of France’s Loire Valley. Here’s what we’ll be sampling and discussing:

Sparkling wine:

• Ampelidae “Armance B” NV

White wines:

• Château Les Fromenteaux Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie “Clos du Poyet” 2005
  
• Domaine Étienne Daulny Sancerre “Clos de Chaudenay” 2004
  
• Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2002

Red wines:

• Domaine Ricard Touraine “Le Clos de Vauriou” 2006
  
• Fabrice Gasnier Chinon “Les Graves” 2005
  
• Domaine du Carrou (Dominique Roger) Sancerre Vielles Vignes “La Jouline” 2004

Moelleux wine:

• Prince Philippe Poniatowski Vouvray “Clos Baudoin” 1990

The registration fee of $50 is inclusive of wine, cheese and the course itself. Sign up for the last remaining seats at Tria’s website. I hope to see you there.

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Recommended reading:

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